T56 Tranny Fluid(cold weather)
 

Well my trans does not like cold shifting. Either the synchros or blockers are effed up when the fluid is thick because I constantly miss gears when the car is cold. I'm going to Atco on Sunday and want this to be as much of a none issue as possible. I just changed the trans fluid with 3 1/2 qts of ATF plus 1QT of Synchromesh and it's not as bad. On the label for synchromesh it says that it helps with cold shifting but it seems like the general consensus on the forums is that synchromesh thickens the ATF which is bad until it heats up and thins out. I'm pretty much looking for an additive or something that would help thin out the ATF as fast as possible but still keep it thick enough to properly lubricate all of the tranny internals if that's possible. I was thinking about draining some of the fluid from the trans and adding another quart of synchromesh and see how it turns out, has anyone ever run more than 1 qt of synchromesh in their trans at a time and what kind of results did you get if you did?


Cliffs:
Trans sucks at shifting in cold weather.
Changed trans fluid and added 1 qt synchromesh....problem almost solved.
Question....is it ok to run more than 1qt of synchromesh in the cold weather?

Is it only when the trans is cold the rough shifting or is it all the time in the cold weather?...My car only shifts rough/grinds 3rd to 4th for the first few miles it seems like once the car warms up all is good...i was wondering if there was an additive as well, im running syncromesh in my trans.

Only for the first few minutes. With synchromesh I can slam the gears when cold, but It's not a smooth engagement. I can feel some friction in the shifter if I shift fast and the car is cold. Give it a few minutes and it's fine. I may just have the car idling in the pits because it's gonna be cold on Sunday anyway.

What sychromesh fluid / additive did you use?

- Justin

that sums up what my issue is, i just shift slow for the first few miles then its fine, also when its cold it will randomly make a chatter/grind noise when i put it in neutral..i dunno...but it defiantly does not like to be cold. i just try to warm up the car as much as possible before driving.

Is it right when you first start your car in the morning and then gets better once the car warms up?

If you have a stock, self adjusting clutch, it may just be the fluid is contracted and needs to warm up for a minute. I usually start my car and pump the pedal a bunch of times while I wait for the water gauge to start moving. It only takes a minute and seems to take care of it.

Also, check to make sure the clutch reservoir is full and give it a bleed.

I do have the stock clutch, I just emptied the reservoir and filled it up with new fluid(didn't do a complete fluid change). If I'm standing in line at Atco, the car will only be running for like 2 minutes before I'm beating the crap out of it. I had shifting problems last time I went there and it was in the low 50's high 40's. Btw, I'm using Penzoil Synchromesh which is the same as GM synchromesh.

I use to have that problem, I switched to Redline and I no longer have any issues shifting when it gets cold.

That is what I use, although never driven it in the cold.

Hmm....may have to change the trans fluid yet again lol. I'm really busy the next few days so I'm thinking I may just take a chance and run it as is because the car shifts when cold, just not as smooth as I'd like it to be. I may show up to Atco a little late on purpose so that my first run is when I come right off the highway and the car is at operating temperature.

http://www.royalpurple.com/manual-tr...ion-fluid.html

Enjoy! :)

- Justin

Hmm... I just did some research real quick on Synchromesh vs. Synchromax. The Synchromax is only a little thinner at all operating temperatures. Redline is actually thicker than both Synchromesh and Synchromax at various temps so it seems like I would want to steer away from that. I'd imagine that RP is probably over $10 a qt compared to the $7 I paid for Synchromesh. I'll have to look into it, it may be worth is to spend the few extra bucks next time I change the trans fluid.

Im running just regular old Dexron III fluid in mine, I just had a level 2 rebuild done to my trans from Tick Performance about 1200 miles ago. They told me to run Mobil 1 ATF and I did at first but it was just too notchy and would grind in the cold sometimes. After a switch to just regular Dexron III it shifts alot better!

have you tried doing the drill mod and seeing if its smoother after?

Haven't done the drill mod yet. If I was able to bleed the system correctly I'd do it, but I don't feel confident trying to bleed the system by myself.

Is Redline a synthetic?

Yes, Redline is a full synthetic

Well I went to the track and I did run into the shifting problem on my last run but it didn't matter because I ended up spinning off the line. Ran a 13.999 lol. So far, the 15 passes I have under me(only been driving since june) have all been sub 14 second passes :D. I found out my clutch will hold the power because I was launching on DR's today without a problem.