into the 11s
 

ok guys if i dont sell my car come spring time im going to do some more modding to it and well im going to want to put her into the 11s. any comments on what i should get to do this. dont want to use nitrous

right now this is what i have
slp lm1
umi sfc, lcas,phr
strut tower brace
tsp lid
ram air duct
descreened maf

will be getting jet hot headers and catted y

Learning how to drive and launch the stick and a small shot of nitrous will get you there the cheapest. There are bolt on only 6 speeds in the 11's.

Your definitly going to learn how to drive and launch the car...

Any kind of sticky tires, your going to blow your rear up...

I'd suggest a TR224 or similar cam...

ill be there with bolt ons if i can keep **** from breaking

ill be there after i get my 4.10s in, and the rear holds up.

Tuning! Tuning! Tuning!

No matter how many bolt ons you have, they aren't done until the computer is tuned to take advantage of them.

headers, ls6 intake, tune, tires, weight reduction.

I want to get there to got to lose about 4.2 tenths. I wangt to keep full bolt on. My struts are bad. i ran the 12.409 with low air pressure in the front and bad struts. So I think if i do suspension, skinnes, ls6 intake and a better tune ill be close.

i agree with him and if you wanted to go a step farther a cam watched a cam only ls1 run 10s

computers FTL
opti's FTL
:lol::lol::lol:

^ Reading for the loss.
Only the greatest of engines have an opti. Geezzzz.

:rolleyes: :rofl:

11's with an LS1 are easy, bolt ons, good tune, traction, hit the shifts. Adding some gearing is helpful, but the more gear you put in a 10bolt the more you raise the risk of breaking it, just keep that in mind.

Nice cam or a small shot of gas should get you there after the headers....

I wouldn't worry about a cam unless the goal was at least 10's. 11 are mild bolt on territory for LS1 cars.

Get all your bolt ons done and then get a good tune in it. You will have the power, then it will just be a matter of traction, talk to our sponsors, among them we have suppliers for UMI, BMR, and Spohn bolt on components. Start with a torque arm that moves the forward mount to the chassis and away from the transmission. All the brands make them and it will be the best bang for the buck improvement you will make for your 60ft and 1/8 mile times.

A cam/sticky tires will get you there the easiest aside from nitrous. Be prepared to rebuild/replace your 10 bolt though.

All the bolt ons/gears and some good driving, or all the bolt ons and a cam and not as good driving :lol:

Jegs makes a nice peice for torque arm replacement,set pinion angle between 2.5-3.0 and sticky radials, O maybe air bags in the rear springs for preload. 5-7on the right side 10-12 on the left.

No need for air bags, the car has a sway bar that is enough to keep it level off the line. I also wouldn't touch the Jeg's TA, there are plenty of better options from UMI, Spohn, and BMR.

Only saying what works for my car.. no need to trash my ride.

But this thread isn't about your ride?

only trying to give advice u guys wanna ba ******** that's ur problem