Front shocks / Front lower control arm
 

I thought I would rebuild my front end as a winter project.
So far this been a nightmare. Everything is rusted and seized so I'm
going through pb blaster buy the ton. I bought a clam shell spring compressor
which I don't think this is the correct tool for this job. This tool just doesn't
seem to fit and work right. I have the shock out, and the tool is compressing the
spring, but the top of the spring still has a little tension. I think there is
a special spring compressor for this application. I'm not sure how to go about
removing the shock now? any ideas. Also the tool for the inner tie rods didn't
work I used a pipe wrench with a floor jack to break it loose, worked great.
The lower control arm will be removed when I can break loose the rear bolt
that goes through the big bushing, I just can't seem to break it loose. I've
tried a BFH and then a RBFH ( big hammers ) and lots of penetrating oil
PB blaster, knocker loose etc. I just can't free that bolt? I will be trying again
tonight. wish me luck LOL, any advice. :-?

The shock/spring combo is pretty easy. Make sure the spring compressor has some tension on it. There should be a nut on the top of the shock, it may be rusted causing the entire nut/shaft to spin. Are you reusing the shocks? If so the top of the shaft should have "flats" forged into it. Try holding the flats with a set of vise grips while you use a long handled box wrench to loosing the nut. If this fails try using an air chisel to spin the nut loose or peel it away without gouging the threads. You'll destroy the nut, but that's no big deal. If not reusing the shocks, then you could try and put a big set of vise grips on the shaft between the coils if you don't have access to an air chisel. Hold the shaft with vise grips and use the box wrench to loosen the nut. I used a different style spring compressor, but that one looks like it should work, just becareful working with a compressed spring. Always keep that thing pointed away from you and everything else that has value. When you remove the top shock nut the upper plate/bushing will slide off. Just be careful with the spring...slow and steady, keep the turnbuckle lubed when tightening and loosening the compressor, there will be lots of tension on the threads and therefore heat, the lube will keep it turning freely.

The lower A-arm bolt/bushings? Haven't done that yet, its on the list of thing to do.

Chris

Chris

The clam shell compressor looks like it will work if you can fit it around the front spindle when putting everything back together. I used two spring compressors, one on each side of the spring. heres a link to the
Compressors I used.

Like qwikbird said, you have to hold the shock piston while turning the nut. I had the same problem with one of the nuts being too rusted to get off: I ended up cutting the nut off with a dremel. g/l

Thanks guys for your advice, It looks like I have to cut that shock nut off
with the dremel tool. The nut and shock shaft is rusted beyond belief.
I was just concerned that the spring may have some tension on it even
though its compressed. I've been working on cars for 27 years, and 4th gen.
F bodies are by far the toughest so far... lol.
My cars through the years: 71 chevelle 307, 68 chevelle 307, 69 firebird 400,
84 camaro Z/28 H.O, 89 mustang LX 5.0, 94 camaro Z/28 LT1. And others not mentioned since they were only average cars lol. Next I plan on changing
the opticrap, water pump, u joints, rear springs, rear control arms, pan hard bar,
rear shocks are done. and other things as I move along here. This car loves my
money.. :lol:

The spring does have tension on the top piece unless you compressed it far enough! The spring/shock/mount piece is a loaded gun.

Short story:
When I first got the front shock/spring combo out, the springs were compressed with crank down straps (I was an idiot and thought I could do it w/o real compressors). I cut the nut in half and it still didnt budge. I then opened the crank handle on the straps and threw a hammer at it like a mouse trap. The top mount on the spring/shock shot about 20 feet.

Moral:
Compress the spring with real tools, and do not stand in front of the shock when removing the nut or compressors.

It was fun, don't lie.

Read and check out these pics....

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...aro/index.html

Chris

Wow I can't believe this guy in the pics is using a clam shell type compressor.
I guess it's ok to use it then. Funny thing is I was doing this task the exact
same way clamping the shock in the vise using pb blaster..lol.
But my nut needs to be air chiseled off , it's rusted to the max.
The only difference is I need a step stool to reach the top when clamped
in the vise, lol I'm 5'9" if I were 6'9" no stool..lol. Thanks quikbird for the
informative link.

Yeah, the top of our struts seem to become like that after a while. I wentto put lowering springs on my car in the summer and I had the same deal, so now im goign with Bilsteins, and a petrolium product around the nut and strut threads to prevent that. Make sure to get new shock hardware as well, not jsut a new shock but also the rubber thing that goes inside the mount, a new mount, and a lower mount part, I mean while its apart, might as well go all the way.