Hooking up
 

I could not get my car to hook when I tried to leave on the converter. I had done a good burnout, and had MT ET streets down to 15psi.

I have UMI LCAs, relo brackets, and a panhard bar. Stock or SS springs/struts in the back.

I am looking to upgrade to QA1s, but am not sure which ones would work best for a mostly street driven car. The coilover kit is a bit pricey for me, so the simple strut ones are what I am looking at.

Thoughts?

you should really see how the car is transferring weight before throwin money around. i recommend some video of the launch from the side and rear.

Well either way, suspension is over ten years old, safe to say it can be replaced... no?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q_MDd...e=channel_page

Kinda hard to see.

you can see/hear it was a bad hook. your nose shoots up then drops then comes back up. you can also hear how you slip/spun and had to get out of it then back on the gas. need better conditions to see what its really doing. that and !swaybar :)

granted i do think your suspension may need some upgrading, i'd see what you should buy first with your given budget to get the best improvement.

race on a non rainy track first

Well theres not much really. Its either springs, struts or torque arm in the rear. Or try for skinnies up front and an LS1 DS...

i guess. is the car leaving square? sure you can't play with the tire pressure some more? like mike said, needs better conditions to really see what it does. i'm sure seat time will help too.

Yea no doubt. I am just trying to get some opinions and do some research on my options, ya know?

i hear ya. the drag racing tech forum on ls1tech has a wealth of info if you sift through it. i'd take advice from the guys that hang their skinnies to dry for 30 or so feet :)

you had the front swaybar connected right? what was the front tire psi?

borrow my front rimz yo

Front tires were low actually, I forgot to check em and when I was refilling the rears I noticed they were low and gave em air too.

Sway bar was still hooked up, you know those entrance ramps can be hairy without it. ;)

install a set of rear drag springs and shocks, unhook front sway bar, run 16 in left rear and 18-19 in right rear, should hook

Care to elaborate on brands etc?

I'd save your money and keep practicing.

Umm in case you didn't notice the track conditions were not the best either. I would get video concentrating on the rear, when you don't go through the water box, and when there is no rain :lol:

There was no water box to go through! I was very disappointed. I am going back to atco. They have a proper box of water. :)

And I plan on practicing some more. Just trying to get some ideas.

you don't want to do coilovers in the rear. you run into too many issues especially if you decide to get a larger rear sway bar. an adjustable rear shock and stock springs should work wonders. you really need to work on weight transfer to the rear though otherwise its not going to work and you will be all :-x

^ Best advice.

Stop trying to solve a problem you may not really have. Get to the track on some nice dry days and make some more passes.

i have had real good luck with moroso rear drag springs, compe engineering adjustable rear shocks.

my 00 ss 6spd. w/4:10's had the stuff above with front sway disconnected runnin on nitto d.r.'s & 150 shot of spray
ran 1.57-1.69 60 footers leavin @ 5500 slippin the clutch a tad

always ran @ atco

I didnt have a problem with the amount of water layed down.. You really dont want a whole lot cause it slings up in your quarter panels and then drips on the tires before you leave the line..
The track was great on sunday.. I got some real good short times in my car. About .03 better than Cecil County on a sunny day in fact..

I have a complete drag suspension combo for these cars available here.. We can set the car up for you or we can just get you the parts for you to install yourself..

You also have been in the game a lot longer than me. :wink: I am but a newb.

What you recommend for the rear suspension?

Good torque arm set up is the first thing necessary to have a good launch. The stock design allows the pinion angle to move around making for some killer wheel hop or just plain loss of traction.. Also keep in mind that the front suspension set up is just as important as the rear in getting the car to hook.

did you launch from idle?

Matt, a few more trips to the track is your best bet for now. Unbolt the front sway at the track next time you go. Plan for a nice torque arm, because even with plenty of seat time, a good arm will help you out quite a bit.

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His best 60's (1.8s i think) were off idle...when he brought it up on the converter he was spinning.

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- Justin