*** LT1 engineers
 

So I bought locking header bolts cause mine keep walking out and causing a 90% rich condition... started this morning, got one bolt out, one in, couldnt get the lock retainers on, and left it at that. Studying the rest of the header bolts, I've decided its a physical impossibility to change them without dropping the motor and taking the headers completely off while you undo every bolt at the same time. I havent even started to guess what it takes for the passenger side.

So, in light of this, anyone here want to earn some money, and do this **** for me before I throw my tools throught the front windshield?

No no no.

That is an SLP crappy product at fault. I can change all mine no problemo.

PS I think I swallowed a sizeable amount of locktite... anyone know the fatal dossage level? Don't ask how.

sounds like you had a good time lol


i can also remove all my head bolts fairly easy with my pacesetter LTs

yeah, my header bolts are pretty easy to get to, you just need the right tool to get at the angle.

sorry only 1/2way on topic here... are locking header bolts really worth it... do they really work well enough not to have the bolts ever back out...

i never had a problem with my bolts coming out, after i installed my headers i did have to tighten the bolts after a week but that happens. other than that they stayed right in.

I noticed when I had my SLP headers that you need to do every bolt little by little. You cant tighten one bolt and do the rest. I also go some thin walled brenches that fit in there just enough.

if you do use locking bolts, they will never back out. i had issues with mine working loose over time. i feel that with the new setup, it will only be worse.

welll i just found some really trick style locking bolts.... they have the bolt that is cut in 4ths and then a set screw in themiddle of the bolt.... you tighten the bolt down like a normal bolt... then you tighten the set screw and it spreads the bolt inside the head making it impossible to back out.... i think im gonna get them...

I got a set of them and never installed, they look like quality bolts. Percy's split lock header bolts

yea the locking bolts i have are the stage 8 blahblahblah models, they have a half moon sleeve that slips on that fits snug flat side against the header tube outlet, so its physically impossible for the bolt to loosen once on unless it cuts through the header tube haha. problem is... they are 1 inch bolts, and on 2 of the 6 bolts are blocked by the header tube itself, they CANT come out far enough to come out, unless the headers are pulled out at the same time. the other bolt, mounts the traction control unit (i think i forget) and they dont have a locking bolt that long.

other then that the front most one is easy (the one i did lol) and the rear most, but thats hard to reach, at least enough not to be able to put on the locking sleeve and half moon piece unless the motor was out of the car.

annnnnnnnnd... thats only the drivers side. the passenger side, i can only physically see 2 of the bolts, let alone get a tool down there... and far from a torque wrench, with any combo of u joints and extensions haha. maybe with six hands the size of a small child, some lube, and superglue on the sockets............ but yeaaaaaaa. im done with this attempt. yet another simply thing turn horribly ugly multi hour job thanks to stupid design.

but seriously, if anyone has these headers, and knows any tricks or has some custom tools and is willing to do the work, name your price.

The provided hooker bolts backed out on me after a dyno tuning session. Trashed the gasket so got new ones along with some nice ARP header bolts with a slightly smaller head. I was able to tq them down nicely and they haven't loosened since I did this at least 4 years ago.

The driver's side is more difficult if I remember because you have to work a couple of the bolts in at the same time if the tubes block them from getting started at a straight angle. Did you get new gaskets? If not, you should probably get new gaskets because you will need to loosen all the header bolts and pull the header away from the head to get the old bolts out and the new ones in at a straight angle. I've used the Stage 8 bolts on 3 cars now and I think they are worth it. Be prepared to file down some of the locks to get them to line up with the bolt and the header tube, but it's not that big of a deal. The locks are easy, the clips are a pita.

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/ho.../photo_05.html maybe?

Those split bolts look pretty trick!

But based on the gaskets your using you may still need to go through and retighten after a few heat cycles.

I have one of the first sets of Jethot headers for the 93s and there is no room for the locking type bolts. Because my heads are heavily ported the only gaskets that fit are the Felpro race gaskets which has almost no material on the ends, so if the bolts get loose they blow out the ends of the gaskets.

What I do is to spray the gaskets with copper coat, then keep tightening the bolts (ARP stainless and I use anti-seize), through 5-6 heat cycles and they will finally stay without backing out. I've taken a offset boxed wrench to the grinder to make it thin enough to pass between the bolt head and header tube and cut it down so I can get bolts tightened down properly. To get to the very back bolts on the pass side I find it best to get from the bottom.

install help..........

1)remove cradle,engine,trans & misc. all @ same time
(taking out from below car)

2)take the engine , trans, kmember & those stupid f*****n header bolts & place the out @ the curb for the garbage man

3)install ls series engine w/ m6 trans and 98-02 kmember w/ecm & harness.

4) NO MORE HEADER BOLT PROBLEMS & JUST GAINED A ****LOAD MORE H.P. !!!!!

LET ME KNOW HOW YOU MAKE OUT !!!:mrgreen: