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Dart LT1 block a "no go"
For a few quick minutes Dart was considering coming out w/ an LT1 spec block, which woulda allowed an LT1 style engine in the 427+ cube range. But they backed out. I was looking into this heavily, as I really want more than 396 cubes outa my Dominion headed LT1 build. I'm gonna talk to my engine builder this weekend and crunch some numbers. I may consider talking to Donovan, as they have built some of their blocks to LT1 specs. Why go into battle with under 400 cubes and a factory block, when there are much more cubes to be had and a block with a superior design to be used? It ain't like my project is gonna be done tomorrow anyways...lol
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Are the dominion heads SBC heads converted to LT1?
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Ah, well in that case, you could be the very first person to convert LT1 heads to work on a SBC!
:rofl: |
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And my engine guy doesn't want to convert the heads to regular SBC style...reverse cooling is part of his plan for the build. Soooo, I'd have to come up with a block with LTx style cooling. |
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Anyway, unstable bob gable, I'm assuming you're building a "race" motor? Why waste so much money on an LT1 and potentially paying $3000+ just for a block? The cost just doesn't seem to justify the possible (and probably small) gains to me. It just makes a lot more sense to go with a conventional SBC money and power wise.... I'm all for people doing "different" things but I'm also all for people doing logical things and I just don't see the logic. |
because he isnt building a race motor
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Get the lt1 block half filled and do a 396. There's guys going mid 8s with it. Btw slowZ how is staying lt1 restricting him? He can have abc heads converted for $400 and it's basically a sbc with better cooling. He can go with a crank trigger setup if he pleases but the opti doesn't restrict anything, the PCM does. He can go xfi and spin it to 8k if he wants
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so you think half filling the block would cost more then an aftermarket SBC block? btw theres a half filled turbo LT1 that goes 8.55 and drives it on the street without a problem
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I too was looking at the Dart block, my concern was that LT1 heads, or aftermarket LT1 heads really don't have the flow to feed a serious 427CI. To make a 427CI LT1 you would need to go the route of someone like N20Dave and look at SB2 heads. By the time you get the heads and aftermarket LT1 block it would be a whole lot cheaper to just go a different route. If you look at those single digit LT1s they too suffer some some of the problems inherent with stockblocks. Cap walk, block flex. an ultra strong block such as dart would built would allow you to push much further. If I ever decide to loose the LT1 it would be replaced with a big block.
Of course, UB isn't going to have that problem, he already has heads with major flow potential and a stud girdle. Unlike the rest of us, Bob has the uncommon parts that will allow him to push a stock block where the rest of us can't. |
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http://www.araoengineering.com/Chevy...evycomb_lg.JPG - Justin |
I'll try and fill in the blanks for those that aren't familiar with my "project."
I own basically all the parts to build a 396 [4.030 X 3.875] LT1, including a block that has been reworked to within an inch of it's life. I'm just looking for the "ultimate" set up to put under those 32V heads. There is no substitute for cubic inches, and my LT1 block is at the end of it's C I limits now. A bigger engine not only has more power potential for me, but won't have to work as hard to make that power. Plus there are the advantages of what an aftermarket block can bring to the table as far as strength, lighter weight, improved cooling/oiling systems, etc. I am building this car to be a high end, no frills Trans Am type car that will be streetable. I want it to run on pump gas, but want to shoot for 200+ MPH at Maxton. |
Have you done any homework or talked with other LSR guys to know what kind of power you need to push the AMX through the air at 200mph or what the frontal area of the car is and how slippery (aerodynamically speaking) it is? Curious?
I am thinking along the lines that if the car's aero is sorted out, the power required should be less, which could make this whole thing easier to pull off and safer for you (assuming your doing the driving). Chris |
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Welp, I'm out da door to go visit my engine and drop a bag o' cash on da builder! :)
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What kind of suspension work is done? Lowered? Peace |
i remember an a c-4 stock body needing 600hp at the flywheel to hit 201 this was in the late 80's junior johnson built the motor.
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I was curious what it would take to push the AMX through the air at 200 mph. So I did some searching and found this:
A calculator for determining the HP to push a vehicle at a given speed. http://www.bgsoflex.com/auto.html In the left hand column is a formula "Aerodynamic and Rolling HP Loss Calculation" So after looking up the width and height of a 70 AMX here http://www.amx-perience.com/pdf/1970...onsBooklet.pdf and doing some math I estimated the frontal area of the car to be (71.57"x51.20")=3664.384 sq. in. Divide that by 144 and you get sq. ft. = 25.447. The web pages says to mulitply the calculated frontal area by 0.85 to account for rounded edges etc. The curb weight is about 3350lbs. So I plugged in 0.44 as the coeffiecent of drag (per the chart for a 60's muscle car medium drag, on the web site), a frontal area of 21.63 (0.85x25.447), tire inflation at 35lbs, curb weight of 3350 and left all the other parameters set to default and set a speed of 200 mph. This generated: Input Parameters Are the Following: * Coefficient of drag = 0.44 * Frontal Area = 21.63 sq feet * Test Temperature = 70.00 degrees F * Test Barometer = 30.00 inches Hg * Vehiche MPH = 200 Computation Results: Air Density Computed is 0.00233 Aerodynamic "Drag Factor" is 0.02386 Rolling "Drag Factor" is 80.21060 # Computed Aerodynamic Horsepower Required is 509 # Computed Rolling Horsepower Required is 143 # Computed Frontal Lift Force is 166 Lbs. If you play with the Coeffiecent of drag and use 0.38 (60's muscle car low drag) instead of 0.44 the power required drops to about 600hp. So it looks like you need to make about 650 hp to pull this off UBG.....assuming the inputs are reasonably close????? I'd guess that number might be on the conservative side, so shoot for 700hp just to be sure. It would suck to do all this work and only go 198 mph.......:rofl: I thought this was interesting, might be completely wrong, but interesting |
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http://www.zr1netregistry.com/ZR1_performance.htm I plugged some numbers into the program in the other post and it looks like you would need at least 500 HP so push a C4 vette to 200mph. Here's a good discussion on C4 performance and top speed: http://www.corvettebuyers.com/c4vettes/performance.htm |
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