Suspension chassis specialist?
 

So who in the NJ/PA area are true suspension chassis specialist. With all the adjustable suspension and 12 bolt rear, who can set it up perfect so there are no vibration, set up right? I know there a lot of guys/shops that say they are but never truely are..

Have a friend who needs help.

Thanks

Josh at JS :)

This ^^^

Where is Chicknhwk when you need him.

Yes, JS is good. Cbrrmike had him set up his suspension and was pleased

hopefully your friend isn't mistaking unwanted vibration for typical noises with certain setups. if you are unsure though definitely get it looked at

No it's unwanted vibration, possible driveshaft balance, pinion angle, U-joint, who knows, but its bad at 80mph and up... Starts at the trans and feels like the car is shaking apart.

Just a idea that you probably thought off anyways, but wouldn't hurt to have the tires rebalanced.

No I would bet my life that it is the pinion angle. The Rear has been replaced, Transmission rebuilt, Been taken out a few times and since then major vibration. I have been reading some interesting article with the proper way of setting that up by measuring from the Transmission tail shaft... I bet it was never done correctly. Geometry of the drivetrain is huge. Robs you of power, time... We need to speak to someone that really understands all this to help out. I'm sure I'll find someone up by me.

Have you talked to Josh then?

No I found someone in Little Ferry who builds cars that is going to help us and specializes in this.

I think you are overthinking the vibration. I ballpark my pinion angle all the time and even on skinnies and slicks I don't have any vibration. The only time I've had any type of real vibration was after 120, but at that speed it's impossiblt to not expect vibration in these cars. I'd bet your driveshaft or tires are probably out of balance.

Well we'll see, I'll let you know the outcome soon.

did u check the D/S to make sure none of the weights came off? what is the pinnion angle set at?

Well lot of things found off. First of all the driveshaft was too long so it was hitting the back of the rear... Way too many weights on it. - Replaced it with custom made 3.5 Aluminum Driveshaft.
The U-joints were shot of course.
Passenger side header pipe had no clearance and had to be massaged off the chassis.
Driveshaft Loop was too high and the Torque arm was leaning on it so that Loop had to be lowered.
Axle seals were not put in correctly so they were replaced.
Transmission mount was replaced to match the Poly Engine mount.
Lower Control Arms were mounted in the correct holes on the Relocation Brackets that were welded on the Moser Rear.
Brake line mount was just hanging and never mounted on the new Rear so that was mounted correctly.

Drives and feels 100% better.

A few shops in NJ and Pa worked on this car in the past and never seen or realized the problems or caused the problems themselves. Make sure you go to real professionals and not hack shops that call themselves performance shops before you get work done on your car, or you will find that you will have someone else doing the same work over again correctly.