Need some suggestions for H/C list
 

I am nearing the end of gathering all of my parts for my heads and cam swap. This is what I have so far


-03' 243 ls6 heads /w valves (250$)
-machined .010" vaccum checked and hot tanked (300$)
-TSP Torquer V2 232/234 (359$)
-Patriot Gold dual springs (250$)
-Comp Cams forged pushrods (85$ IIRC)
-36lb Ford SVO fuel injectors (275$)
-TSP ls6 ported oil pump (179$)
-LS2 timing chain (41$)
-LS7 lifters (139$)
-All gaskets and bolts (235$)
-160* thermostat (49.99$)

The car i am hoping will be tuned by SSP. Have had slight contact about this.

Bought the crank pulley puller from my snap on guy also for 119$ i think it was and picked up the fuel disconnect qucik disconnect tool. I cant imagine any other special tools i will need.

Brining it into the shop May 6th and driving out May 7th

How much HP/TQ you guys think this will put dow to the wheels?

http://s44.photobucket.com/albums/f3...o/P3250004.jpg

http://s44.photobucket.com/albums/f3...o/P2200002.jpg

Sold the rockers despite how beautiful they looked :cry:

Sounds like you have just about everything. Couple comments.

- you replacing the head bolts?
- did you measure pushrod length to assure you will have the correct geometry?
- MLS gaskets are good but make sure the surfaces of the head and block are super clean.
- oil to soak lifters
- thread sealant (not sure if needed in LS land lol)
- good torque wrench

-yes i am replacing them.
-I am going off an exact build that was done. I messages this guy on what exactly was done and same lifters, heads and what they were milled down to. But i am still going to check before i install. Told my boss that i will start at 5PM friday and will have it together by end of day saturday. So if i need to use them for the day i might have to till i can expidite the right size.
-I have some nyroc blades and all sorts of prepping material at my disposal
-Oil is not a problem
-That reminds me i need assembly lube for the Cam, and i have any thread locker i need
- Snap-on Torque/angle digital 3/8" drive 8] and have the shops 3-4 foot 3/4" breaker bar if i need it for the crank pulley (also have the air lines)

Sounds like you are in pretty good shape. Maybe grab some thread chasers if you don't have them.

Sounds like it will be a good setup. Would it be a good idea to change out the cam bearings while he is in there? How about a fuel pump? Dont know what the stock pump is good to power wise but with your setup on a good tune I would be looking for 415-435 rwhp.. That sounds reasonable to me.

i have seen about every other build do the pump but I did not research if it was nessecary or not. Probably talk to ssp about that.

i did 425rwhp with stock fuel pump and stock rails, no issues.

I did the pump in my car when I did the motor swap. Wanted to rather be safe then sorry. My stock pump had 94,000 miles on it. Thats just me. I am using 42lb injectors and stock fuel rails but I have a 238/248 cam with ported 243 heads..

If I didn't go over my original budget I probably would do the pump. But if I can get a few months without anything happening to this one I will get one. I only wanted to spend no more then 1500 but I am close to 2k already I don't want to get an exact number it will just make me sad.

Don't get me wrong if i absolutely needed it I would doing it

How many miles are on your stock pump?? I got my Walbro on LS1tech from a sponsor for 100.00 shipped.. Not to shabby. I went over my budget to for my build but I am glad I did since I dont have to worry about not getting enough fuel if my Stock fuel pump went out on me.. Dont get me wrong. You will probably be okay with the stock pump but is it worth it to chance it?? To me it wasnt..

We also had a issue were I purchased my Pushrods while I was getting parts together and we found out I needed shorter pushrods then the ones I already purchased.. Dont know if you just purchased pushrods or not but make sure before you do you see how long of a pushrod you need..

I have a set of 7.4's based on an exact same build on this forum and a few on tech.
But i am going to check before I install anyway. One of the techs i work with brought a pushrod checker in for me. I have heard differnt things with these LS7 lifters but we will see when i measure for pushrod length.

I have a 100k on it now, not sure if it has ever been upgraded or not. According to the Carfax the car has had a few thingas done, just dont remember what they are.

You remember what sponsor it was that had the pump, and might regret asking this but what does it take to change out the pump.

Build the car, stick fuel pressure gauge on it, check for pressure drop off at high rpm's during WOT, draw conclusion.

Drop the fuel tank, pull fuel level assembly, swap pumps, reinstall. If you go that route, I would suggest the racetronix hot wire kit as well.

Yup, and FYI, only a walbro has ever left me stranded, the stocker never gave me a single issue. I went with the "stocker is obviously bad news, replace and win" thought process... ah well.

From all the info I read about the fuel system is that the stock fuel pump is good and safe to around 430-450 rwhp.. There have been some that made more power with the stock system.. I didnt want to test that out.. I have around 4000.00 invested in my motor build and did not want to cheap out for the stock fuel pump and test its limits. For 300.00 I got my 42lb injectors and Walbro 255 Fuel pump and for my piece of mind it was well worth the price..


So you run a stock Fuel pump now??

After dropping the tank three times? .. good god no. :rofl:

After two walrbos, I got it to drive reliably. Granted, I was prob the one person on the interwebz that ever had a issue, but still. Aftermarket parts can sometimes be worse than stock at reliability terms.

I know the pump I got the gas shouldnt go below 1/4 tank as the pump tends to overheat.. My old Firebird with the aftermarket pump in it was the same way. I never had any issues what so ever from either pumps but I always tend to keep a 1/2 tank or more fuel in the car.. I never had any issues with my stock pump as well. The only reason I changed them out is because I did a built V6 on the spary on my 98 and a Built LS1 which will be back on the spray in the near future as well.. To me its kinda like having a forged bottom end or a 12bolt. Just some piece of mind and knowing when I need the fuel it is going to be there every time based on my experience. ( of course you had your issues)

Yup, not saying its not a worthwhile thing to have, but if you can verify that the stocker is fine, no sense in short changing something else to fix a non existant problem.

My walbro has peaked pressure round 49 area, I like it.

il deff. check it out, but yeah im the same way i will not let it drop below 1/4 tank

Can anyone comment on the gaskets. Anymore I would need?

Make sure you get the heads checked out as well. I bought a used set of 243's and they looked good. Then the Machine shop took them apart and found out that there was 2 bent valves..

Exhaust Manifold gaskets you might need as well..

Aren't they the sweet metal reusable ones?

Heads were checked. Had that done before I even bought anything else

When you lower the pan is there enough room to slip in a new gasket

You'd have to lower it really far (approx around 6") to get clear of the rod journals and oil pump pickup screen...not feasible unless the engine is out of the car.

yeah i couldnt picture underneath the car when i wrote that, i have had it up in the air since that and figured i would need to do something obnoxious to do it.

Update on parts and scheduled date up top


The scheduled date for me to bring it into my shop is the 6th and 7th. I will take plenty of pictures.

Been watching some clips on youtube and streetfire amping my self up.