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you wont believe this
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Gonna strip it down to figure out what's wrong?
- Justin |
see guys, im not the only one that uses shifty jackstand set ups! lol
so whatcha doin to it? and becareful underthere |
bad jack stands is no laughing matter... the car falls you loose... get to harbor freight they sell larger heavy duty stands that work perfect for that and they arent to expensive...
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yeah im stripping it down and having everything looked at to make sure there was no damage, the guy shop that machined it told me that one of the plugs that they pressed in above the cam may have popped out. they said its unlikely but it has happened before( and i have checked everything else i or anyone could think of) while its at the machine shop it will be getting some internals and a nice procharger will be on its way after the bike is sold:twisted: |
my build is like a retarded cousin of Blackbirdws6(brian)'s build :mrgreen:
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What procharger????
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im just going with the p600b small yet effective
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Should make some funny noises :)
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thanks i definitely will brian. im hoping thats the problem, i think i may pull it in the garage now and strip it all down, i took off some of the stuff but it started to rain:|
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Its running away
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harbor freight has their 3 ton jackstands on sale for $15.99 right now and I think in the flyer they're supposed to be $12.99 in a week or two
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i dont have anything better to do today thanks for the info guys |
the 3 ton are the standard size thoiugh... they have two larger sizes... the medium ones are what i used to hold my car up high enough to get the motor in and out from under...
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i bought 4 of their 6 ton stands a while back. i think they were 45bucks each. then there are bigger ones yet lol
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I have a few questions...
First off I have pulled a lot of motors from third gens and trucks, everything was always pulled out the top. I can have a small block out of a 3rd gen f-body in 4-5 hours. Recently my brother's LT1 started blowing oil out everywhere imaginable so we started to pull the motor. I read everybody said it was easier to drop the k-member and wheel the motor/trans out on it. All we have left to take off is the 6? k-member bolts but it seems like it would be so much faster pulling it out the top :/ Has anybody ever tried both ways on the 4th gens? Which is actually faster/easier? (I'm still stuck believing I can have the accessories off and get the gearbox separated from the bellhousing and pop the motor mount off faster then I could take off the entire k-member). Oh and we didn't use jack stands, we took a bunch of tires (still on the rims), jacked the back of the car up onto a set, and stuffed two sets under the front unibody rails. Tires work great because they allow the car to roll slightly but they can't roll out of the deep offset of the rims. |
Its prob easier and safer just to have a qualified shop do it.
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Its the only way I'll pull a motor. Do it once any you'll understand.
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harbor freight has massive jackstands lol |
I redid my hardlines so I can just pull the calipers and drop the k. Its pretty legit.
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i pulled all the accesories off and opened the front of the motor and all the oil plugs and what not are still in, i guess that means im putting it on a stand and taking the pan off and checking the bearings:| |
Not understanding why everybody makes it seem so hard to take the bellhousing bolts out. Once the crossmember and driveshaft are out of the way, the trans can be angled downward to remove the gearbox separately. After that it's a matter of taking off the headers, reaching the motor mounts, disconnecting all the wiring and removing the accessories.
Maybe it's just cause this is my first attempt at dropping it all out the bottom but I really think it's never taken me remotely this long to get a motor out. |
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