LT1 cam suggestions
 

alright guys, i need cam suggestions.

after some more research my previous post in the drag section was ill-informed. i need a cam thats gonna go good with a 3200ish stall and have the most useable powerband without revving past 6000. i know even thats pushing it for this motor but still thats not too bad.

as read from ls1tech.com


cc502: (218/224 .528/.537 112lsa) w/ 1.6RR's
Features Comp's relatively newer technology XE (Xtreme Energy) lobes for more top-end power. Exhibits great drivability with a strong mid-range and moderately good top-end. Similar to the LT4 “Hot Cam” in performance and drivability.
Pass Emissions?: Yes
Shift Point for Maximum Performance: 6100-6200rpm
Idle Characteristics: Moderately Choppy Idle
M6; Require Gears?: No
A4; Require Stall?: 2500+ Stall Speed

or this


LT4 “Hot Cam”: (218/228 .525/.525 112lsa) w/ 1.6RR's
An older technology design that has proven itself in reliability and decent power output. Exhibits great drivability with a nice mid-range, step up from the factory LT4 camshaft hence the "Hot" in LT4 "Hot Cam". A good selection for the person who doesn’t want to do research or have the best cam out there due to the ease of purchasing the entire kit. Similar to the cc502 and cc305 with the XFI 466 having a decent edge on it and the GM846/cc503 putting out another 10-15hp/tq throughout with similar drivability.
Pass Emissions?: Yes
Shift Point for Maximum Performance: 6100-6300rpm
Idle Characteristics: Slightly Choppy Idle
M6; Require Gears?: No
A4; Require Stall?: 2500+ Stall Speed

or

Crane 227: (210/224 .511/.553 112lsa) w/1.6RR's
Good proven performer on stock heads. Stock LT1 heads have restrictive exhaust ports relative to the intake ports and the 227's wide split in duration helps balance that out. The 227's low-end power starts low and is consistent through the entire mid-range making it a popular choice among guys with heavy B-Bodies. Will have stock like drivability and is known to be a torque monster. Lope is not very noticeable making it a nice “sleeper” cam.
Pass Emissions?: Yes
Shift Point for Maximum Performance: 6000-6200rpm
Idle Characteristics: Smooth Idle with a Slight Lope
M6; Require Gears?: No
A4; Require Stall?: 2500+ Stall Speed

any suggestions would be appreciated greatly, and if anyone else knows a cam that would work better, do not hesitate to tell me. LT1's are very new to me so the truth is im clueless when it comes to what will work on stock heads and be the most bang for my buck.

also, has anyone had experience with the zz409 from tpis? seems like a good pick as well

Why don't you wanna use the 503? I would stick a gm white spring in your oil pump to bump the pressure up and roll the dice revving it a little more. Sooner or later, that bottom end is going to spin a bearing. Might as well encourage it a little :)

im not trying to encourage it too much you see its my daily, and the wife would KILL ME if i killed it quick and had to dump tons of cash into it. that happened with the 87 iroc. dont want that happening again

what about the lloyd elliot setups? he has the le2 with the cam for a really good price

You will be spinning a LE2 setup to round 6400 area FYI.

i see that....meh.....white oil pump spring with a 3200 stall, some le2 stuff...see what it runs

My POS ran consistent 12.1s at 116 before I pulled it apart.

As Adam mentioned, I would consider the cc503.

cc503 it is time to start saving for everything to do it....thanks guys

I was suggesting the 503 if you stick with stock heads. You could cam it a little more if you go ported or just enjoy the extra power with ported heads and a 503. Its not the best cam out there but its a good cam for what you are asking in my opinion. No matter though, you are gambling with your bottom end with that mileage.

i know im gambling...pretty much all the time.

just looking at all the specs etc i think im gonna wait on the cam for when i can build another motor. if any cam goes in here its gonna be small for now like zz9 small. i need a shortblock to freshen then go from there for the bigger stuff...the real motor will be built over next winter and installed so by meet season itll be a little bit nastier.

after looking at many things im gonna start with rebuilding the rear, building the trans with a decent stall, suspension mods, and the last will be the motor

thanks again for your suggestions..you guys know lt1's so i trust your ideas

That plan is definitely the correct way to do things. Definitely not as fun, but correct.

Its really not worth the time and associated costs involved with a cam swap if you plan on swapping it out in a short time period. Leave it stock and build up parts for one build done right.

By rebuilding the rear, you mean anything involving the 10 bolt, throw those ideas out and don't waste a single cent on it. Save for a 12 bolt at the very least.

Other wise, suspension will always be helpful down the road so thats a good place to start.

id definitely do the 503 as Adam and many others have suggested, i had a cc306 full bolt ons, trickflow 21* heads and I stretched the rpm barrier a lot and my connecting rod snapped before any bearings went:facepalm:

meh....fml i knew someone was gonna say that...the wife already did...and i hate when shes right

I mean, you certainly can, I had 3.73s in mine, and a TA cover, it still works.

Makes some god awful noises on decel and turns though, so don't waste your time cause it will leave you stranded in the long run.

I think like the others said, the 503 is your best choice. Dont cheap out of the valvetrain though. Get some good springs, lifters, pushrods, arp studs and a good 1.6 rocker. If you cheap out with your valvetrain bad things will happen when you start to spin it high

ya know what...new direction...

find said used lt1 shortblock. send to josh at jsperformance and have him build something nice, get supporting mods, go low 12's/high 11's and drive it every nice day...maybe eat a few ls1's when all is said and done

That is what my recent build was like and I couldn't have been happier. Granted things could have been done differently and money could have been saved, but I drove it every damn day I pleased.

Do it right and like this clown you can run a 11 sec pass first pass on the car. Don't cut corners and what not.

There is something to be said for taking your time and not doing a one day thrash session.

yeah im not gonna cut corners anymore...im tired of being that guy with a few really good mods and some sh***y mods because i was broke at the time. happened that way with my 87 for a while. this car im not treating like that, its too nice.

if i EVER hit 11's that time slip is getting laminated and going in the back window, so when i hit up the local mostly import meets and they start trashin me for being the camaro guy, i just point to that slip and say "hmm and you ran what with vtec?":rofl:

thanks guys...see you at the meets

The 10 bolt will last you a little while. The life of it depends on a couple things, one is driver abuse. and they are known to blow apart in the 6 speed cars. A friend of mine has a 2000 SS that is bone stock and his rear exploded at like 70K and he babies his car. I on the other hand open her up a little when I drive it and its safe to do so. If I didn't do that it would never get blown out. I am waiting for him to sell that car cause I am going to buy it and have some fun

i dont beat on my cars too much, the occasional 25-30 to 65 pull getting on the highway....maybe a random burnout here and there....but by no means am i constantly thrashing it...i dont have money to hurt stuff all the time. the rear doesnt make any odd noises or anything so im just gonna baby it until it tanks.