10 bolt spool
 

Preface, I know.

Current 10 bolt rear in the car is peg legging, and since its a 10 bolt, I am not spending money on it. So, other than welding up the spider gears, is there similar means to making it all spool like?

Welding is an option but current welder thinks he cannot weld deep enough into gear steel.

Thoughts?

Get a bigger welder.

Suffer till you can afford a new rear. Other things are just not worth the risk.

Would a "proper" weld job be sufficient for now?

Please keep tech threads on topic, must I remind you this is not the BH. Thank you.

Matt,

I had another post that I deleted, but I guess I'll throw it out there. :|

You can mini-spool it.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Richmond-Gear/...d=#moreDetails

Disclaimer: This is a really bad idea, especially for drag racing, especially with your power level, and especially with the ring gear size. Of the two rear end guys I have used (both had/have 30+ years experience with rears) they were both very adamant about mini spools being for dirt track racing only. If you bust an axle shaft you can do a header into the other lane, or the wall.

Doing a "Lincoln Locker" will do the same thing, but the welds need to be good or it's a bomb. Any spatter or slag will make short work of the gear set. And you run into the same danger issues. Be real here. Your car will do 140 through the traps. You are making big boy power.

Make it at work!

I hear you, and I am not doing a mini spool, but have read if you get one, and weld it all into one piece its marginally better. From what I read a properly welded up posi isn't horrible but I guess its all a potshot.

Just wanna race my car but even doing lame launches, no proper burnout kicks the rear out mid track (that pic you got of me mid ramming speed into Kirk)

Thinking out loud here cause I am poor and wanna go fast. :nod:

Be kinda hard to weld the gears cause the metals have soaked in some oil thus weakening the weld when u weld. Ud have to bake the diff to pull the oils out then weld it. If u bust a axle it will still stay on due to the caliper holding it on. If i were u id start a collection for a new rear going.

Yea I am, just can't be tossing round 2.5k purchases now anymore.

Really wanted to explore my options other than pulling the rear and fixing the posi.

For a welded posi to be better the welds need to be dead-nuts perfect. Seeing as how so many people weld axle tubes wrong I'd say the numbers may be against you. And carrier strength aside, that's a LOT of stress on the small axle shafts.

I am a gambling man (just ask Jersey Mike) and I wouldn't gamble on a welded rear. One busted axle shaft could do some serious damad.

He can soak the gears in a Kero/Mineral spirit mix before baking, too.

As for the caliper being proper axle retention, that's only partially true. I saw a stock-ish LS1 car hit the wall at Maple Grove back in the mid 2000's. The caliper did not stay in place.

Welded my axle tubes, just gotta preheat and make sure it doesnt cool to fast. Not saying id bet my ride that the calipers will keep the wheel on but for that couple secs of hard braking id take it only once haha

that pic saved me typing. welding gears is redneck BS.

Spools are for tracks. Not supposed street cars with OD transmissions.

I know union welders....

Did you use a MIG with regular steel wire?

Kudos on the shout-out.


Don't use the heat in your house for the winter. 50-75% of real rear cost saved.

Because burst piping is FUN! :laugh:

Yea and its held plenty of blasts from my car. No whine or anything. Tubes are steel and center is cast.

That's not the right way to do it, It may have worked, but you cant use regular carbon steel wire to weld cast iron to steel. Thats what WBT was meaning when he said most people weld axle tubes wrong

All i know is it worked (looks good too) Not like im welding a two support beams together to support a millon pounds. Just tryin to slow down the 10 bolt death march

Ill keep the wire though in mind next time i do weld tubes to a center section. I thank u for the info though