LT1 Revival
 

Well guys, after 3+ years of sitting in my parents barn, I figure it is about time I rebuild my 1995 Trans Am. Its an LT1/ttops/6spd car, has bolt-ons and needs lots of tlc. I know it isn't worth it, but I want to for sentimental reasons. Looking for any pointers/tips on what I should go with, given my budget ($6000+/-) and what it needs (1/4 million miles, blown starter, engine burns just a little oil, floated valves, blown oil pump). Would like to keep it an lt1 block for reason of simplicity, and want to see 12s or better out of it, without spray, which shouldn't be too difficult. And although I will do some of the work myself, most I will not do since work and college keep me busy. Also if any of you have parts for sale I would be interested, just keep in mind while the car is in Hopewell Twp I am in Punkin Center, WV. Anything I should expect to replace (besides tires) on a car that sat for a while? It has a stg II clutch (original one blew in Hancock, MD) and new t56 trans (also blew up)

Thanks

Jake "Jersey" R.

Sorry if I misspelled, hate using this cellphone, but telephone/internets been out since Sandy here!!!

what bolt ons been done to the car already?

Cam swap, lower rear gears and some seat time will get you into 12's granted everything else on the engine is up to par.

Intake (slp stg2) and catback. Maybe something more, but basically, umm, stock. As far as gears, I like my sixth the way it is. Engine was basically on its last days when the starter and oil pump bit the dust, and I didn't have time or money to deal with it so I stored it. Thinking of maybe crating it up with a 383 or hc 350?

You are paying someone to do the motor? You have barely enough for that if you pull it and install it.

I've known this guy a while, he used to be a GM Master Tech before he left to start his own shop, told me $600 to remove/install motor (and anything else made easy while the motor is out, like headers). Thats mainly why I am looking at used parts for some of this. I can stretch the budget a little but thats it.

Really your rpm range is going to dictate where you spend your money. Forget the 383, keep your stock crank, clean it up, if you can you should get forged rods with arp bolts along with forged pistons, new bearings and arp hardware throughout, and put the rest in the top end deciding how stout it needs to be with your cam's power level. Use a stock flow gm pump with a high pressure white spring along with the arp drive gear. Have the pickup tube brazed to the pump body as they are known to fall off. See how much slop is in the timing chain. Price all that out before you spend your money. See what good machine shops are in your area. They will have to tear down the short block to really know how much work it needs but its a necessary step. Your power is going to be made with your heads and cam. A package from lloyd elliott or advanced inductions would suit you well. Bump the static compression ratio up some as well, 11.5:1 would be fine but 12:1 would be better pending cam selection.

I know one machine shop out around pine knob, they rebuilt my (now sold) ww2 Military Field 280amp Welder, and they did a good job on that. I was planning on Having Motor Works of Trenton do all the work on the car though since it is close to there (they are in ewing across from the shop rite on olden - yes, in NJ.) No the six-hundred is not his normal price, but his price for old, loyal customers. As far as the engine work, I reckon it could be done here, since I have a pickup capable of hauling the engine. And I will read up some on the stuff you mentioned. As far as slop in the timing chain, it wasn't terrible (like what the old dakotas were known to get where you can hear it) but with the engine torn down, might as well replace it. How much could I likely save by going to the etown swap meet for some parts? Any good parts worth buying / looking for used that I would have a chance at finding? After all I really want to have the car running by July, and get used to having a powerful manual trans car again, then start really racing next year (which will give me time to save for a bulletproof 12bolt to swap in).

On another matter, a friend wants to swap a 71 camaro 12 bolt for my ford 460 block (which I have no chassis for, but he does, he'd trade his edelbrock carb to this guy for a 12 bolt then trade me the 12 bolt for the motor for his bronco that has a 428 or something in it now). Would I be able to use the older 12 bolt in my T/A with "minimal" effort? Or would it be too difficult to be worthwhile?

1.) No 12 bolts in a 71 Camaro from the factory. It is from something else.
2.) It will be a lot of work. It is a leaf spring housing, you need a totally different setup.
3.) If it's a '70 Camaro rear, take it and re-sell it. It's worth a good chunk of change.

Thanks Bill. I'll ask around the general stores, who knows, someone might have or get a 12 bolt that will fit my T/A.

I would look on here, ls1lt1, ls1tech, and ltxtech in the classifieds for deals on parts. Check out ellweinengines.com and look at his builds. He had the college budget 355 build but the link is broken.

I would throw any ideas of performance out and settle for a well running, issue free car.

Simplest would be to buy a blueprinted LT1 long block from Jegs, install it with a new clutch and just focus on the rest of the odds and ends once you can drive the car. Otherwise, do as Adam said, clean up block, use stock crank, I would just reuse stock rods/pistons though, then get the heads cleaned up, new springs/valves and MAYBE a baby hot cam or similar.

Simple is better sometimes.

Meh, he can easily get a 503 in there with the supporting valve train but if the motor is coming out he should at least have it checked out and freshened up. I wouldn't entertain a crate engine from a large retailer. Sometimes its better to have someone you can return to locally if something goes wrong.

Agreed, but there is something to be said about placing order with Jegs, and getting complete motor the next week etc. Simplicity.

But what if its not correct? Brian had that issue going with a local machine shop with a medium scale operation. There is something to be said about going down the road, watching your motor being built, and having some local guys to go to if an issue arises or just to bs and brag about how great a job they did.

The short blocks may carry a warranty but I'm sure the fine print is thoroughly detailed. I would have liked to watch my motor be built in person. I'm not sure if it would have resolved my initial issues though.

It is CRITICAL to read the warranty with each crate build. They do not always operate they way people hope and think they do.

You built your motor? I assume you meant machined and yes, its cool.

If it is a 12 bolt, which as WBT said means it was swapped in, do it ASAP. What is a 460 block worth, $12? Compared to a $500-1000 housing.

A 10 bolt 8.5" 71-81 camaro rear brings $100-300 depending on gears/posi/local demand. (note it is nothing like the crappy 10 bolts in 3rd/4th gens)

A 1970 8.2" 10 bolt has little value. $100 maybe

Stock rebuild, cam tune and gears will get you easily into the 12s... I bet for $2,000-$2,500 you can have a motor capable of 12s and rebuilt.

Found ported heads, cam, intake, 1.6 rrs and a spare vented opti for $850 (part of a 396 lt1 that ran 10s. Heads will be checked, might toss the cam since it will be too big, and maybe be capable of high 11s.

I meant built. I would have liked to see Karl do his thing in person.

It would be good to know the intake runner and combustion chamber sizes but nice score. What are the specs on the cam?

And this is why everyone thinks LT1s are slow.

Do **** right rather than toss cheap parts in it cause they went fast in someone else's drastically different combo.

Trying to tune a mismatched cam is no fun either.

You realize he meant not use the cam because it was too big, right?