Does it pay to spray?
 

My friend is offering to sell me a kit from his 5.0 Mustang. I know its for a 5.0, but I thought it would be possible to purchase a plate's for my LT1. Its a Ford racing kit by NOS 80-shot.

I have an edlebrock catalog, and they sell just plates. And I was wondering which whay would work the best? Spray before the throttle body or after?

Re: Does it pay to spray?
 

Ideal would be at the ports, 2nd best is after the TB and then pre. It really doesn't matter so long as both the fuel and nitrous are being introduced at the same spot in the intake trak.
Also having it spray before the TB shouldn't be a problem if you have the nitrous only coming on with WOT.

all your basic nitrous questions are answered here in the link...the guys that post in this forum are very knowlegeable...convinced me to get a system...it's in the mail...the "halo kit" from nitrodaves.com

http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=140389

btw...if you're gonna want to spray a dry kit (one that relies on the fuel injectors only to add fuel), spray before the MAF

wet kits add nitrous and fuel together and should be placed after the MAF

Hmm.. I don't see where they tell you you need to replace your oil at like every 500 miles after a few uses of nitrous. I wonder why :roll: . Nitrous is some nasty stuff and you WILL get blow-by, change your oil frequenty when you use the bottle.
Also spraying before the MAF is a terrible idea. I don't know who came up with that but it's bad for the MAF and the MAF can't "read" nitrous mass flow. It's designed for mass AIR flow, not mass Nitrous and Air flow, lol. If peolpe are getting away with it it's because the nitrous is cooling down the intake air temp a LOT, not because the MAF is measuring it accurately. I'd NEVER do a shot before MAF, that's a hack job. It'll work so long as you don't spray directly onto the MAF heating wires. If you must, shoot the nitrous into the side of the intake pipe before the MAF, this way you don't damage the MAF.
Do a dry shot if you've got an aftermarket computer (or source coded GM computer) where you have LARGE injectors and a digital input that can tell the ecm when to start running rich. That's how you run a dry shot!

But how can I adapt a system into my car? Thats what I kinda really want to know. I know how nitrous works, but how can I take a kit for another car, and make it work for me. Even if its some rediculously low ammount.

sorry, i did screw up on that one preMAF doesn't work for all but just as an fyi...an ls1 maf can measure nitrous accurately

Do you have any proof of that?
My proof; Nitrous oxide contains more oxygen in the same mass than air. You will still be WAY lean if you inject just nitrous before the MAF on a car. This is because the MAF is calibrated to measure AIR, not AIR and Nitrous!!! To give you an example that might make more visual sence; look at the Nitrous kit that installs on the air cleaner post on carbs. I forget the company but I believe it's NOS. They don't just inject nitrous above the carb (which is a fuel metering device), they inject fuel as well.
The reason a MAF "might" work at reading nitrous has to do with the temperature of the gas. Ideal gas law says that if the pressure of a gas decreases (going from a 1400+psi tank to atmosphere which is 14.7psi) it's temperature decreases proportionally. A MAF measures air flow AND temperature at the same time. Nitrous will cool down the hot wires in the MAF making it think there is a LOT more air, this is a band-aid fix and is in no way measuring the actual flow rate.