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Installing amp?
Within a reasonable time I would like to get an am to help power the 6x9s in the rear. Only problem is that my knoldge of speakers runs out at installing speakers. How exactly does one run all the wiring to the rear and then back up? Im 99% sure there used to be an amp in the car as there is a positive cable lead in the hatch area (I havent checked, but right now its not hot and there is a spare wire up by the battery). Im sure a few of you know what you are doing.
BTW Im going to be getting INFINITY KAPPA 693.5i 6x9's and have a recommended power range 2-110 watts RMS, peak power handling 330 watts and my headunit only puts out a measily 16 watts RMS/45 peak x 4 channels. Also what amp would you recommend? I was thinking the Audiobahn A4002T . Since it is 100x2 @ 4 ohm, it will give the speakers the best power. I know crutchfield is a rip off, but I just refrenced their site. Usually I shop on there and then check out ebay. Once I get the items, perhaps one of you who knows what they are doing would mind helping me. |
amps are simple, you get power from the battery, for a small amp like that i'd recommend 8 or 6 gauge wire, and make sure theres an in-line fuse. then you ground the amp to some part of the body somewhere, i used my rear strut tower...you run RCA cables from the back of your stereo deck, under the dash and down the opposite side of the car that the power wire is on to protect from interference, and those hook up to the amp....then just use regular speaker wire fromt he terminals on the amp to the speakers. if any of that doesnt make sense, let me know.
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one thing i just wanted to add, if your headunit doesnt have RCA outputs, you can still hook it up to an amp. low level inputs use RCAs, high level use speaker wire signal inputs. RCAS are better quality but if a radio doesnt have them, you can use the high level inputs on a amp or get a new radio. Also not all amps have high level inputs so keep that in mind too. One other thing i learned.. dont attach the amp to the metal body directly, when you do that, you make then entire amp casing a negative ground and it could(not always) cause problems, screw to wood then mount the wood.
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I forget if it has the RCA plugs...Damn.
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and if its a fairly new aftermarket head unit, it should have RCA outputs... |
I looked in the trunk today. there are 4 (atleast 4) wires. 1 grounded to the trunk floor. 2 RCA inputs (I gotta see if they go all the way up to the head) and what looks to be a power. If the RCAs go all the way im, im good to go.
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that small black wire with the RCAs is most likely the amp remote turn on. Â*It looks like you still need a + battery cable run. Â*And IMO, change that ground, its too small and i think it seems to be about 10 gauge, do at least 8 gauge wires for power and ground.
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I'll second that, it definetly looks like the signal wire.
- Justin |
as long as the ground is close to the amp you'll have no problems with that wire...ive installed probably 1/2 dozen systems in cars and as long as the ground is short you can run 10ga with no issues...like justin said that ? one is probably the signal wire...which tells the amp when to turn on basically.
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oh and if you want speakers cheap give me the part # and I'll see what i can get them for...for instance i can get the amp for $170+$10 shipping...otherwise best buy is the way to go they have some VERY good prices.
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Sigh, well the amp idea is out. Dad doesnt think I need to have it. Would I be better off getting the same speakers (the infinity) and just have them powered by the amp and not have them reach their full potential, or would I be better off get speakers that somewhat match the output of the head?
IE better to have 16 RMS/45 peak on speakers that can hold 100w or 16 RMS/45 peak on speakers that can hold say like 50w? |
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