[Fasterthanyou]

1st: The stock prop valve will work for now but I'd get a wilwood adjustable if you've still got the 10.5" front rotors.

2nd: From what I've heard that kit comes with both options for auto/manual valve body. There are a BUNCH of servo valves to choose from, with your power level I'd stick with a vette valve. Call up a trans shop and ask for their specialist, he should give you a good idea if you tell him your scenario.

3rd: Cheapest high stall converter is one from a 4 banger s10 late 80's early 90's. These converters are 12" lockup but because of the v8 torque vs RPM it'll stall higher than it would behind the 4 banger. I would recommend a yank if you're set on keeping the automatic and do have an ET goal in mind.

4th: Fuel pressure should be set lower to match your injector size to the ECM's tune. So if the 305 has 19lb injectors and you're using 24 then set the pressure to whatever it takes to get it down to 20-21ish. If you don't change this you're going to wash the cylinder walls with fuel (stock calibrations are very rich at idle and even more so when you're running big injectors without telling the ecm). So long as you don't open the throttle fast and snappy like at low RPM the engine will be fine with the lower pressure (MAF is nice like that). So if you're injectors are rated at 48psi, set em to like 40psi. When you're in closed loop the motor's fuel will be fine. From your mods I'd run 2-4 degrees more base timing as this will help the idle and cruising, just don't go WOT but I think you already know not to do that .