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Originally Posted by Slow Z
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Originally Posted by Fasterthanyou
3rd: Cheapest high stall converter is one from a 4 banger s10 late 80's early 90's. These converters are 12" lockup but because of the v8 torque vs RPM it'll stall higher than it would behind the 4 banger. I would recommend a yank if you're set on keeping the automatic and do have an ET goal in mind..
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A torque converter from a 4 cylinder S10 wont bolt up to a SBC flexplate. However, a torque converter from a 4.3 liter V6 S10 will... I ran one behind my current motor when I still had the 700R4. It sucked monkey balls. It only flashed to like 2100RPM. It was so tight that my motor wouldnt even idle properly. Thankfully my 700R4 died after only a few test passes and rather than forking out $1000+ for a "built" 700R4 that'd probably die again, I got some sense and put in a TH350 that cost me $250, then gotta 9.5" Torco/Art Carr converter for $350. My Torco converter will flash at 3600RPM, footbrake to 2500RPM (with my crappy brakes and skinnies), but still drive just like a regular car. No "dynoing" effect at low RPM's, the car will even lurk forward at idle.
If it was my car, I'd ditch the 700R4 because its only going to give you troubles eventually behind that motor. I learned the hard way... Nothing crappier than getting your car back together then having to take it apart again. Jeff Mazzoni in Vineland rebuilt my TH350, pretty much a stock rebuild with good parts and a shift kit. $250, couldnt be more happy with it. |
You're right I'm wrong, it is the 4.3L v6. From 85 to 95 the 4.3L tc will work and cost like $130-150 which is very reasonable.
Slow Z, it sounds like you got the wrong converter because I know for a fact that the s10 converter will slip more with a v8 behind it than the v6, unless you've got a really big cam... but even then you shouldn't have a problem with it stalling from being too tight, sounds like a bad tc because you're the first person to say that. I've got a 2800 stall Continental lockup converter and it's a beast of inefficiency. My motor does NOT need this high a stall converter but I thought I'd have slicks by now... nope, so all it's done is decrease my city milage from 18 to 12, I average 16 driving some highway some city, which pisses me off. I get 23 highway!!
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Originally Posted by IROCdan330
Jon, whatever happened to you goin to Atco? I had some money for you.
Anyways, I don't have a disc rear, hence the need to swap. So I don't have a proportioning valve at the time. So Wilwood is a good one? I've got stock 87 iroc rotors up front, whatever size they may be. I thought they were 8 inch rotors for some reason but I could be wrong. Any suggestions on what to set the thing at?
Do you know where I can get a vette servo? Thats what I figured on using I just wasnt sure.
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I sent you a text message that I had to work that night. It sucks, I've been working tuesday evenings for a while now.
You still have a prop valve, the stock combination valve is just that, it's a combination of a prop and metering valve. Just use it until you get an adjustable valve and then you can bypass the whole combo valve.
I've got your memcal adaptor and chips all ready, just a matter of picking a day that works into our schedules. I'm taking online classes this quarter so I've got a lot of free time but sometimes I'm working, I need at least 4-5 days head's up to make time.