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Originally Posted by johnjzjz
if you had used a degree wheel and checked the # 1 / 6 as a combo you might have found the cam was not ground on center meaning the the 1 3 5 7 cyl were diff than the others almost all the cams execpt one ( crane ) has this problem its in the way its made cant tell buy pix if its intake or exhaust if you are sure it was not a valve float ? that caused the ding and not always do the valves bend on light contact no need to worry but head gasket thickness may be at play make sure you measure the thickness of the old verses the new if you had a .060 on the motor and you put a .039 in the ding will grow and if you have the time and the ability you can check to confirm its not what you are runing that did this a solid lifter and a set of checker springs deg wheel and some time its not hard if you found it to be not in spec ( .090 intake / .120 exhaust ) advancing or retarding the cam as little as 1* will make a difference and move the valve away
ps: in some very rare cases a bad rod bearing will also cause the ding but if you never had a rattling when starting it up from cold discount this jz
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all this work was done by others (not that I would have checked the cam out, either), but believe me I'm gonna be laying some clay on the pistons and checking the valve to piston clearance prior to bolting the heads back on for good. Then we'll go from there depending on what I find. As for gasket thickness, I am using exactly what came off the motor when I disassembled it, Fel-Pro PN FEL-9284PT....so we'll see what that yields...
I'll be keeping ya posted. with all the gory details...
Chris