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Old 08-12-2007, 10:49 AM   #13
trashman01
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Beaufort SC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jims69camaro View Post
i used a "nail gun" type of tool that would "tack" weld a stud to the metal

this is known as a stud welder

and then u would use this other tool and yank it and it would get most of it out,

this one is a slide hammer

i then used a hammer and a block of wood and hit the inside and then use the wood as the stopper.

if no other tools are available, then this would work. hold the piece of wood on the other side of the metal where you are going to hit it with the hammer. if we are talking a claw hammer (carpenter's hammer), then hit as lightly as you can and still have a subtle effect every time you hit it. slowly, but surely, the metal will go back to it's original shape.

got it as flat as possible then used a lil bondo to smooth it out

this is the correct use for bondo. at least you tried to flatten out the metal first instead of just using bondo to get the surface flat - which is where bondo gets such a bad name. anything over 3 mils is really too thick and you should try working the metal some more.

thanx man its been a while since i last did body work and that was as a lil side work with the guy i worked with. im more of a auto tech then a body guy so thanks for the names.
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2005 Colorado Z71 - Supermod tuned, SuperSparkz, Resonator delete, SuperMod PTB

next up - 3" lift, Gutted cat/retune/muffler

Past Toys:
1983 Trans AM, 1988 Trans AM, 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 Off-Road, 1986 Camaro IROC, 1984 Chevy K10 lifted, 1988 Mustang GT, 2006 Silverado 2500HD
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