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people who know nothing will tell you the stupidest things - pulling the side of the block off is a real worry has happened to me - big power to do that and lots of frame twist needed as well left wheel off the ground 2 feet right wheel still on the ground - does you car do that ???????
front motor plate causing head gasket leaks -- same thing frame twist needed
most plates end up part of the timing cover and front block attachment holes for accessory's than attach to the chassis side rails to welded stays
i like the use of a mid plate ( between motor and trans ) to welded tabs on frame rails and stock solid mounts this way no travel limiter bar is needed ( limit bar stops motor from front to rear movement ) when using a front and rear motor plate together - Caution mid plate moves converter for trans out so washers needed to shim it so only .100 movement from pump to flywheel - write that down if you do that you will have to make sure the snout on conv is in the pump gears correctly --
front steel solid mounts stock position and mid plate ( ALLOY or steel ) both being solid if you run a glide you do not need a trans mount at all, but if its a 3 speed you will need a stock soft rubber mount ( NO SOLID NO POLLY ) or the bell housing will crack on trans and the mount holes need to drop directly over onto the mount no tweaking or things will crack it is simple just follow the correct way to do it -- jz
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