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Old 01-04-2008, 11:21 AM   #15
NightRydaSS
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 513
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Batman View Post
Here goes my opinion, FWIW,
LCA's and panhard: Go with any single adjustable for both (since you are lowering the car). I would stay away from rod-ends because they are noisy and yes they are better then poly but not by a whole lot.
SFC's: 3 point are stronger but can cause alot of clearance issues with exhust and the ground, for your car a good set of weld in 2 points will be just fine.
Shocks and Springs: Spend the bucks for Koni adjustables oR QA1's. If you don't plan on doing alot of 1/4 mile time singke adjustable is the way to go.

A couple things you are overlooking (don't know if you did it already or not) is a STB and most importantly a torque arm. The STB is dirt cheap and really helps the nose on turn in in tight corners but I would DEFINATELY get a tubular torque arm. I've had a few and SPohn and UMI make nice adjustables but I went a new route on my car that has ben awesome. I bought a BMR non-adjustable and the BMR front mount relocation kit. It costs a little bit more but you get to keep a full length torque arm and still have adjustment (it has 4 or 5 different mounting points on the front). It isn't the easiest adjustment in the world so if you plan on alot of changes a regular chassis mount adjustable may be hte way for you to go, but in the turns it makes a world of difference having the longer torque arm.
already have a STB and wow what a difference. Good deal with the 2-point SFC, they r cheaper and i don't want clearance issues with exhaust (planning on a 4" one when i do the engine mods). The TRQ arm was what i was concerned about; i remember a post on here that had a link describing different TRQ arms setups. It stated that short chassis tunnel mounted ones can cause rear wheel hop during breaking. i sure don't want that so i was hoping that a full length one and a relocation bracket would work. As far as adj, i'd let the shop i use to install the stuff (Josh or TTP) make them and leave them alone. i think they would kno the optimal settings for my needs better then i would. ill also prob get a PHB relocation bracket while im at it.

The Koni/Strano package on UMI's site seems to be what i need. I dont need the 4/4's b/c i don't see myself making adj, i just want a mean street machine.

anything else i need to be aware of guys???
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