Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokingSS
ah ok, these responses are exactly what im looking for.
i dont really care about the trans much, ill put a fully built one in after deployment.
I just dont wanna damage the motor. Should i just start with a turbo back exhaust and intake setup for now, and then get into it really after deployment with injectors, fuel pump plate, governor springs, etc?
btw...the truck is a 96 2500, 12Valve, 69k miles on entire truck, trans rebuilt at 40k already.
i want the truck to be fast, not quick for a diesel, i want fast
and for some laughs heres a picture of my truck... for the most part it looks wont change, just its power. lol.... can we say sleeper... 
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I'd do the exhaust and put a free flowing open element type air filter on it and get some gauges if you have them already. You aren't going off road so excessive dirt and mud aren't really a concern. To protect the open element from water and heavy dirt pick up an outerwears sock.
http://www.outerwears.com/
For an air filter, most guys pick up a big cone style open element and just run that in place of the factory air box. See the attached pick. And its pretty cheap mod, $40-80 depend on who's filter you go with.
I run an AMSOIL universial open element with a sock and have no problems.
Its cleanable, but you don't have to oil it and all that crap. I just get the shop vac out, it cleans up and goes right back into service. The outwear sock keeps all the heavy stuff off.
Don't run a K & N filter. Guys don't seem to have good results and they sometimes collapse under high boost.
Do a google search on BHAF (Big Honking Air Filter) and Dodge and it'll return all kinds of info
You will get more turbo wine in the cab, but that's a bonus as I see it.
As for injectors, delivery valves and bumping the timing up; I'd talk to one of the companies mentioned. I haven't done any of that yet, so I can't offer any guidance.
I dealt with TST and they were good people and educated me on my purchase. In doing lots of reading, most guys go (looking for big power) with a #10 plate, #00 plate or a combo of the two commonly referred to as a #100 plate. All of those plates are pretty aggressive in their fueling and over time will burn up a stock automatic or take out the stock clutch. Figure out how much towing (and how heavy) you plan on doing, because that will figure in also as you start feeding more fuel. More fuel = more heat. Don't want to melt the engine down.
I wanted the #10 plate but didn't want to risk having to put in a $1300 clutch, so I stepped back to the #11.
You also want to look into the KDP (killer dowel pin). If this fails it can take out the motor. Google KDP Cummins Dodge. Get this fixed too and don't use the jig method, take the front cover off the motor and tab the KDP. With the cover off you can check/locktite all the other gear case bolts while you are there. Took me about 5 hours to do taking my time. All the companies mentioned sell a kit.
I'd worry about the fueling mods after deployment, get the exhaust, air filter, gauges, KDP tabbed. Then when you get back, do the homework and see what fueling mods you want.
Chris