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IMO you will not get a running and driving numbers matching/papered SS for that price.
Given today's economy I think he can probably find an older restoration or solid rolling chassis for that price.
There is a ton of stuff to say, really.
Basics of Numbers:
1.) If it's got an "N" in the VIN, it's a Norwood car
2.) Vin should be 124379Nxxxxxx for Norwood, 124379Lxxxxxx for LA/Van Nuys
3.) Norwood cars have "X" codes on the trim tag under the hood:
X11: COULD be an SS but is too loose in meaning to be a deciding factor.
X22: SS396 with style trim
X33: Z/28 with style trim
X44: Base car
X55: SS350 without style trim
X66: SS396 with style trim
X77: Z/28 without style trim
With the exception being Norwood cars built before 12B, the second week of Dec 1968. If you come across a Norwood car without one and want help verifying it send me a PM. I know of a way to estimate that I will not publish.
4.) AT MINIMUM, numbers matching means the partial VIN on the pad and partial VIN on the trans match the VIN on the dashboard. Full numbers matching involves date codes on intakes, carbs, etc.
OE Equipment that an SS should have (although over time the car could be modified):
1.) SS got dual exhaust so it should have hangers on both sides
2.) SS should have stock 3/8" fuel lines
3.) SS will NOT have monoleaf rear springs. Multileaf only.
4.) SS350 could have a powerglide and a 10 bolt but it is very rare
5.) SS cars were required to have J52 front disc brakes. 4 wheel drums was not stock.
6.) Tire sticker denoting wheel size in the glove box will be at minimum 14x7. Chances are this was not modified when people messed with the car over the years
7.) Original SS hood has louvers or simulated vents on it. It will have reinforcements on the underside of the hood for this.
Non-SS cars could get dual exhaust, 12 bolts, Muncie transmissions, 350s, and 3/8" fuel lines so their presence does not mean it's an SS.
Regarding RS cars, there are a lot of clones out there but one way you can tell is the reverse lights out back. They should be by themselves on the tail panel. You can inspect the holes to see if they look factory or not.
Other crap
1.) No X code, no papers, not 100% real. That's the way it rolls. Even paperwork and "numbers matching" stampings are scrutinized for high dollar cars. However, if appears to be an all original car the build sheet may still exist under the rear seat, in the headliner, or on top of the gas tank. All the same, tread carefully if investment quality matters.
2.) IN THE NAME OF ALL THAT IS HOLY BUY A SPOT ROT. AND USE IT.
3.) Fenders, doors, hoods, and trunks bolt on. No biggie. Rear quarters and rear metal is expensive to replace.
4.) Floor pans are not hard to do. Rear Frame rails are. Check them right where the front leaf springs mount up to see if they are rotted. Hit them with a hammer and poke them with a screwdriver at the very least. This is deal-breaker territory.
5.) If he finds one he likes, crack open some catalogs with him and see what it would take to get it up to snuff.
Or hell, if it's local to me and you want me to look at it give me a call.
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