Quote:
Originally Posted by JL8Jeff
Cool, sometimes it is an easy fix!
|
Yea sometimes. It's only temporary as I still need to re-do all of these fuel lines. I'd like to put in a gauge just before the carb as well. I am also concerned about how close my current lines are to my motor and exhaust manifolds (especially the fuel filter by the firewall). I think it may also be affecting me because I have no trouble on cold starts, but after a few hot soaks, I get problems. The location of the lines and resulting heat could be causing air bubbles in the lines or boiling or maybe even vapor lock. The car is still running with no thermostat also...
Do I need to have absolutely no fuel in the car whatsoever to change the fuel lines, or is there a way to cut off my tank and just run out what's in the lines? I'm guessing that since my stock in-tank pump is gone, I'll have to run the car dry. I've been trying to keep the tank to 1/4 at most and it's around 1/8 now (assuming the gauge works).
This picture is the car during cold start Saturday morning before I got it towed:
After I got the car home I adjusted the carb on Sunday and it ran much better. I first adjusted the curb idle screw and I could see the primary plate closing as I tightened the screw (with the car off). Then I adjusted the other two screws to fully tight and then 1.5 turns out. I started the car up and it went through the cold cycle fine. When I took the choke off, it miraculously kept running and didn't die. My idle was too high, around 2200rpms, so I backed out the curb idle screw until I was at 900rpms in neutral. That's still a little low, but I left it there to make sure it wouldn't stall out again. I ran if for 20 minutes like that and I had no problems.