NJFBOA - Home of New Jersey's Camaros and Firebirds - View Single Post - The winter repairs, troubleshooting, upgrades and projects

IROCZman15 · 02-09-2015, 08:40 PM

thanks guys for the replies and advice. I really do appreciate feedback on this stuff both good and bad feedback. I didn't reply to this for a while until I had a good enough amount of an update to write about. I did get some measuring calipers and confirmed that front sway bar is 34mm and the rear one is 23mm which is awesome. Also, not going to go the route of QQ license plates just yet; maybe in the future. Depends on how NJ inspection goes this spring.

here is the progress:

- Fixed the large-ish gap between the front bumper cover and the Glasstek hood by lowering the hood latch mechanism on the front nose framework and also bending the metal latch bar mounted to the underside of the hood i'm way happy with the gap now

- Bought new MAF burnoff relay wiring connector and the MAF power relay wiring connectors (the ones I mentioned above) and cut out the old broken ones out. Wired up the new connectors, soldered them in, shrink wrapped, and ran the plastic wire loom over them. both connectors and relays are working great and no more frayed connectors causing any buzzing or problems.

- Decided to NOT remove the charcoal canister after reading some info about those who have done so having issues afterwards. I may build a mount hidden behind the fender/bumper and hide it under there, but I will probably do that after I pass inspection, just to avoid any issues

- Took out the rear coil springs and took out the stock isolators. Bought a three feet of 5/8" diameter heater hose and slipped that over the top coil to make new isolators. This provided exactly 1/2" drop in the rear body which is EXACTLY what I was looking for. This took the measurement at the floor to the fender lip from 28.5" to 28" at center.

- Flushed the power steering fluid out of the system. New fluid is Valvoline Power steering fluid.

- Untwisted the kink in the braided flex line that was between the main line and the rear axle T fitting. Just gotta bleed the brake system and that task is done (waiting on the wife to help me bleed it)

- Oil and oil filter change Now running 10W-30 Mobil 1 Premium with a Bosch 3322 filter

- Did a LOT of research on swaybars, rear lower control arms, panhard bars, bushings and rear suspension setup. Even though I am still reading posts on various forums I think I am going to do the following:

- For now I will keep the current swaybars since they are 34mm (front) and 23mm (rear). The best ones most companies are selling only go a few MM bigger so for now I will put the $ I save on not buying some new ones into other aspects of the car. I am, however going to be replacing ALL the endlinks and the other mounts. I have found plenty of polyurethane ones for sale on their own but none of these have grease fittings already installed in them. I know I can drill in my own Zerk fittings, but if I can buy some already setup, why wouldn't I. I did find a polygraphite set at TDS which I might do http://www.top-downsolutions.com/cha...amaro-or-fireb but I still need end-links. Not sure if I should go poly or rubber or other.. because I know poly will need greasing and I dread squeaking down the road. Regardless, I will be pulling the swaybars off the car, cleaning them up and painting them, then installing all NEW hardware and bushings.

Rear Control arms: 99% going to go with UMI on this one. On-car Adjustable Control Arms with Poly/Roto-Joint. Poly on the body side mount, and Roto-Joint on the axle side http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...roducts_id=393 Also, I will be getting relocation brackets from UMI for these bars

Panhard bar and new mount: Also UMI here An on Car Adjustable Panhard- w/ Poly/Roto-Joint setup Roto Joint to axle, poly to new bracket http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...roducts_id=355 I need adjustable because I've lowered the rear several times over the years by cutting 3/4 a coil and also doing the heater hose mod (above). aAlso going to get a new relocation mount http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...roducts_id=289

Also, going to order new hardware from UMI and a tube of grease. All gloss black powdercoated pieces instead of red. I have read an incredible amount of good things about UMI, especially their revised version of the front LCA's which might be good as next years project.

couple quick photos to offset all this typing:

---- and don't worry, I didn't leave that hose clamp in that position, I reinstalled it completely so there was NO chance it could interfere with any hardcore spring compression

still coming: pull the knock sensor out and wrap some Teflon tape around it (thanks Paul), fix passenger door to make it hang level again, fix negative battery terminal with thread-former epoxy, seat belt retainers to be sewn onto the seats, grease job, replace speedometer gears in tailshaft (grey and light blue?), bleed brake system, relocate charcoal canister, pass NJ inspection, and a kit for a wet 125 shot of No2 and purge system

feel free to chime in on any of this guys

02-09-2015, 08:40 PM	#7
IROCZman15 10 Second Club / Meet Coordinator Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Roxbury, NJ Posts: 2,136 iTrader: (8)	thanks guys for the replies and advice. I really do appreciate feedback on this stuff both good and bad feedback. I didn't reply to this for a while until I had a good enough amount of an update to write about. I did get some measuring calipers and confirmed that front sway bar is 34mm and the rear one is 23mm which is awesome. Also, not going to go the route of QQ license plates just yet; maybe in the future. Depends on how NJ inspection goes this spring. here is the progress: - Fixed the large-ish gap between the front bumper cover and the Glasstek hood by lowering the hood latch mechanism on the front nose framework and also bending the metal latch bar mounted to the underside of the hood i'm way happy with the gap now - Bought new MAF burnoff relay wiring connector and the MAF power relay wiring connectors (the ones I mentioned above) and cut out the old broken ones out. Wired up the new connectors, soldered them in, shrink wrapped, and ran the plastic wire loom over them. both connectors and relays are working great and no more frayed connectors causing any buzzing or problems. - Decided to NOT remove the charcoal canister after reading some info about those who have done so having issues afterwards. I may build a mount hidden behind the fender/bumper and hide it under there, but I will probably do that after I pass inspection, just to avoid any issues - Took out the rear coil springs and took out the stock isolators. Bought a three feet of 5/8" diameter heater hose and slipped that over the top coil to make new isolators. This provided exactly 1/2" drop in the rear body which is EXACTLY what I was looking for. This took the measurement at the floor to the fender lip from 28.5" to 28" at center. - Flushed the power steering fluid out of the system. New fluid is Valvoline Power steering fluid. - Untwisted the kink in the braided flex line that was between the main line and the rear axle T fitting. Just gotta bleed the brake system and that task is done (waiting on the wife to help me bleed it) - Oil and oil filter change Now running 10W-30 Mobil 1 Premium with a Bosch 3322 filter - Did a LOT of research on swaybars, rear lower control arms, panhard bars, bushings and rear suspension setup. Even though I am still reading posts on various forums I think I am going to do the following: - For now I will keep the current swaybars since they are 34mm (front) and 23mm (rear). The best ones most companies are selling only go a few MM bigger so for now I will put the $ I save on not buying some new ones into other aspects of the car. I am, however going to be replacing ALL the endlinks and the other mounts. I have found plenty of polyurethane ones for sale on their own but none of these have grease fittings already installed in them. I know I can drill in my own Zerk fittings, but if I can buy some already setup, why wouldn't I. I did find a polygraphite set at TDS which I might do http://www.top-downsolutions.com/cha...amaro-or-fireb but I still need end-links. Not sure if I should go poly or rubber or other.. because I know poly will need greasing and I dread squeaking down the road. Regardless, I will be pulling the swaybars off the car, cleaning them up and painting them, then installing all NEW hardware and bushings. Rear Control arms: 99% going to go with UMI on this one. On-car Adjustable Control Arms with Poly/Roto-Joint. Poly on the body side mount, and Roto-Joint on the axle side http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...roducts_id=393 Also, I will be getting relocation brackets from UMI for these bars Panhard bar and new mount: Also UMI here An on Car Adjustable Panhard- w/ Poly/Roto-Joint setup Roto Joint to axle, poly to new bracket http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...roducts_id=355 I need adjustable because I've lowered the rear several times over the years by cutting 3/4 a coil and also doing the heater hose mod (above). aAlso going to get a new relocation mount http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...roducts_id=289 Also, going to order new hardware from UMI and a tube of grease. All gloss black powdercoated pieces instead of red. I have read an incredible amount of good things about UMI, especially their revised version of the front LCA's which might be good as next years project. couple quick photos to offset all this typing: ---- and don't worry, I didn't leave that hose clamp in that position, I reinstalled it completely so there was NO chance it could interfere with any hardcore spring compression still coming: pull the knock sensor out and wrap some Teflon tape around it (thanks Paul), fix passenger door to make it hang level again, fix negative battery terminal with thread-former epoxy, seat belt retainers to be sewn onto the seats, grease job, replace speedometer gears in tailshaft (grey and light blue?), bleed brake system, relocate charcoal canister, pass NJ inspection, and a kit for a wet 125 shot of No2 and purge system feel free to chime in on any of this guys __________________ 1987 IROC-Z - modified Last edited by IROCZman15; 02-09-2015 at 08:48 PM.