I think that moroso filter number came up during one of my searches actually; but no I have not ran one of those. I had been running the Napa 21060 since I got the engine back in Feb. 2020. I'll keep the moroso one you mentioned as another good option for next fluid change. Looks to be about $28 on amazon.
Man, that freakin hub was a pain, but I have no info about if it was ever an ultra-tight fit initially because I have never had to operate on the damper or hub until now after 5 years. So, as much as it sucked, I'm glad I didn't half ass it and regret it later on.
I got some more stuff crossed off my winter-work list,
1. Fix crankshaft Pulley/balancer issue (done)
2. Swap O2 sensors side-to-side and compare results (unresolved still)
3. Bleed out old brake fluid and put in all new DOT 3. (done)
4. Rear passenger seatbelts stuck (done, I removed them completely last weekend)
5. Install GPS tracking/theft device (done)
6. Tighten up hood alignment/gaps
7. Fix rear drivers-side seat base bolt hole (done)
8. New set of Front MT skinny tires to replace the 9 year old rubber. (next winter)
9. Swap out all valve cover bolts with longer ones (done)
10. Key/ignition issue still happening (unresolved still)
11. Fix exhaust shield edge by muffler/fuel tank (done)
12. Replace rear sway bar with UMI drag-bar (done)
13. Oil and filter change (might swap to 40wt oil, or 10-40, instead of 20-50 VR1) (done)
14. New magnetic in-line Trans filter, check fluid level better (done)
15. A proper set of rear shocks to put on the car for dragstrip days (keep koni yellows for street) (probably in the summer)
The new UMI anti-roll bar is installed, and I am going to keep the endlinks on the "inside" hole until I can get to the track and see how much body roll there is with the new bar. If there is still an issue, I will move the endlinks to the outboard hole position, which makes it firmer. I am aware that the endlinks are kicked at an angle, and I measured it to be at 14deg from plumb. UMI says this is within acceptable territory, so I will keep it as it. The bar is perfectly level from side to side, but depending on how/where I measure it, it is 15 deg kicked-down towards the nose of the car. The endlinks are both adjusted exactly the same, and I am almost completely maxed out on available threads to shorten them. I did not load any pre-load in the passenger side endlink; will re-evaluate at the track. It feels good on the street, but thats not any real test. I took some measurements from the flat ground up to each endlink connection point and both sides were 7". Measurements from the ground to both body-mounting surfaces is 9". And lastly from the ground to the flat segment of the bar that goes right under the diff-cover, that is 6.5". No idea what all that means but I measured it anyways!
Took the car out for a few brief local drives and it felt good. Probably only have about 45 miles on it so far with no new surprise issues. Engine does seem to want to rev-up quicker; likely a bonus from the new damper/pulleys.
The Brake system got all new DOT-3 fluid and all calipers were bled out.
Still stuck with three problems:
1. The ever present slow drip of oil at the rear-main seal area which causes the oil to sling around the flexplate and onto stuff like the starter and bellhousing.
2. Also, I checked over a bunch of stuff related to my intermittent "no crank" when turning the key. I'd say it happens 1 out of 15 times, and its random. Not an issue with heat soak at the starter or anything with the PRNDL or Neutral safety switch. I have been in the column, even considered swapping out the ignition cylinder and ignition key too, but the key ALWAYS turns and that makes me think its not key related. Last year I replaced the ignition switch module thats on top of the column under the dash and I thought that solved it, but turns out it hadn't. It's just an ongoing troubleshooting battle still at this point.
3. The discrepancy in the Oxygen sensor readings from gauge to gauge. Having swapped sensors from side to side under the car,and removed the extenders, I am still getting mis-matched readings on the Holley vs. AEM gauge. Townsend helped me out with a part number for a new sensor that will help bring the AEM numbers into closer range of the Holley sensors. I ordered it, and hope to get it on the car soon.
All that aside, I'd like to get more miles on this car sometime soon, and of course I'd like to get some timeslips at the track too. Finding free time is hard to come by recently