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Old 02-27-2011, 12:05 PM   #10
JSPERFORMANCE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Firehawk441 View Post
If by "Chassis Mount" you mean the T/A that uses the foward bracket that bolts to the floor where the OEM stamped steel bracket is? Do yourself a favor and stay away from that style. That is NOT the chassis of the car. That is only the floor of the car and will flex like crazy.

A true chassis mount uses a crossmember that welds to frame connectors or is attatched to a roll cage such as a 25.5,25.3,25.2 etc.

Buy the BMR tranny mount that incorporates the T/A mount and use a std. length T/A. This area of the floor is a structural support of the Uni-body and won't flex.
Your statement is 100% correct but it is a matter of application as well. In a car such as yours with close to 1000hp running at the track with a big tire, trans brake, etc. that set up is perfect..

In a street car with moderate power the design that mounts at the seat brace is more than sufficient.. Sure the floor may flex a little but nowhere near as much as the trans mount like the factory design uses. The car still has control arms so the forward thrust is still transferred to the chassis through them. A set of three point subframe connectors can always be added to stiffen the tunnel brace area up a little more.. (We have cars running 1.2x 60' times with this set up so it cant be all that bad)

The "relocation kit" you described is a good piece for low to modrate powered automatic cars. It gets rid of the annoying broken trans mounts but the bushing still flexes more than the floor ever would so if total control is your concern this would be the least effective choice of the three.

Not everyone is going to cut their floor or install a roll cage into their car to make improvements in their suspension. This is why its nice to have choices to fit everyones needs and budget..
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