Thread: Not this again.
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Old 11-06-2019, 03:09 PM   #2343
LS1ow
Power Member / trans break does not equal transbrake
 
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okay so, the car has survived both the drive down to linden, dyno pulls, and drive home.

First we did a hand full of pulls on motor to get the new MAF and intake squared away. during this time, i discovered the summit racing rad cap i have is not up to par. While doing a pull, it blew out leaving coolant all over the place. That cleaning up took a while, but all is well

With the motor pulls wrapped, we turned on the warmer and had a moment of prayer.

Once up to optimal bottle pressure, we started to program the WOT/TPS. Which is were more trouble began. Programming of the RPM and everything went cake. but then when we tried to do the TPS signal, we ran into some issues. The controller would kick on for 5 seconds or so and shut down. I had it wired with a power tap from the radio keyed power, so i assumed maybe that was the issue. Decided to ditch that and just temporarily wire it to constant power. Snipped the power wire and used a butt connector to run a new wire all the way to the fuse box in the front of the car. With an eyelet to the power post that the battery cable runs to. Flipped the arming switch...same crap. Began to panic and assume i had myself a bad WOT/TPS box.

Thankfully cooler heads prevailed and Nish wanted me to check over the wiring diagrams i used, and not the ones on NX website, which he thankfully asked me to bring to the dyno in case something exactly like this was going to happen.

As a safety, i have a fuel pressure safety switch in line right before the rail. The switch triggers ground, particularly the ground for the nitrous controller.

Everything besides the TPS range it programmed no problem, because the car was on and had fuel pressure. The TPS has to be done with the car off so you can set the range by holding the pedal at WOT. The pump would prime, then bleed down, obviously not making any fuel pressure, killing the triggered ground at the Fuel pressure switch.

...i ended up just disconnecting the FPSS and jumping the wires for the remainder of the time. Remind me at the rental to unjump them so i have a FPSS.

Unfortunately i wasnt able to get my bottle refilled on short notice, so i headed into the dyno with less than a full bottle. Thanks to me playing with it, me not having the feed line to the noids not tight, and me showing every one of my friends that stopped by the purge.

We were able to make 4/5 passed on the bottle before we were shooting blanks.

Nitrous on a 4 second ramp, coming in only above 4k, the best pull before not being able to make enough bottle pressure was 552hp.

Each of the 4/5 pulls saw small bumps in power, 7-8hp each time from the very safe first pull tune. all while steadily dropping in bottle pressure.


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99 Z28 - SBE LS1/60e
Motor - 10.84 @ 128 - 1.47 60'
Nitrous - 10.16 @ 132 - 1.40 60"
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