[IROCZman15]

Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider

You either yank that or build a shelf to keep it at/above frame rail height.

awesome, thanks for confirming I was ok to do that. I went ahead and removed it. Built some shelves out of angle aluminum to sit the box on sideways. then through bolted it through the floor with 3"8 threaded rod (as per NHRA) while using some tube aluminum supports to act as vertical supports surrounding the 3/8" threaded rods to keep from pulling the box down when it is all tightened up. it is all loosely mocked up for now, and its pretty solid. I know we don't have an actual rear frame-rail there in our cars, but my aluminum angle is bolted to the U shaped stamped channel of the floor which is as close as we can get to a frame-rail I'd say. no photos currently.

I was working in the garage with the main door open just 2 days ago when that snow storm came by. snow flew in everywhere within a few minutes. what a mess!

pulled the nose and bumper and hood support and hood off of the car for the engine removal/install portion of this winter's projects. just to avoid scratches or clearance problems since I intend to pull and install the engine and trans together.















The next area I have to handle is the battery disconnect switch. This car will be a street/strip/autocross car and I do want the switch to be mounted in the passenger tail-light (black panel by license plate) and I want it to be the type of switch that you turn (not a push/pull handle). My questions arise about the type and capacity of the switch :
-Should it be a 4 pole switch or the 2 pole switch? The car has an 1 wire alternator (Powermaster Model #37802) which produces 140 amps max and 95 amps idle.
- is a high capacity/weatherproof switch the type I need? such as the Longacre # 52-45791 switch ? max amps and continuous amps seem to fall within parameters? or longacre 52-45783 ? the car is a street car so weather and water might exist so i am thinking the "weatherproof" version is worth the extra $10
- http://www.longacreracing.com/produc...---4-Terminal-
- I want a switch that has a "dress plate" like the one above for a cleaner install, but on the inside of the car, will I need to drill a big 3" hole in the sheetmetal in order to feed the thick wires to the back of the switch, or is the switch housing long enough that it will protrude past the inner sheetmetal. (I will be installing the oem black panel over everything when its completed, but was just curious if I should plan on cutting a huge hole to route the wires to the backside of the switch?
- I think the 3/8" stud size would work well with the 1gauge positive cables, but not sure if I went with 0 gaugge cables would need bigger terminals and a bigger stud size??

The wire itself:
- will 1 gauge welding wire be sufficient for the positive power wires connecting battery, switch, starter, amp, and junction block? or do I need to go find 0 or 1/0 wire? the local speed shop only has up to 1 gauge red wire and he says he uses it on all the race cars he builds with no problems.
- will 2 gauge black coated welding wire be sufficient for the ground wires. from battery to chassis, from cylinder heads to eachother and then to chassis, and a ground wire from engine block back to battery? or do I need to upsize the ground wire to something bigger than 2 gauge?

wire routing:
- see attached diagram. I created this after much research and I would like feedback from you guys who know this stuff well enough. the one thing I am defintiely unsure about is, should the power wire coming from the alternator be going to the optima battery, or go to one of the studs on the kill switch? I'm thinking this would depend on if I got a 2 pole vs a 4 pole kill switch right? or ?

fuses:
- I intend to run a 175 or 200 amp megafuse on the positive wire coming from the alternator and heading to the back of the car (see above..either to batt +, or to kill switch terminal). a fuse here is a good idea right?
- I also intend to put a fuse after the junction block (in engine bay) on the wire leading to the fuse block... the junction block will send power to the starter's solenoid and to the fuse panel. a smaller fuse would be needed here since I plan to use 8 gauge wire from the JB to the fuse panel. correct? The junction block can also act as a jump-post for if I need to jump start the car from the front ?



please let me know your thoughts and tech advice. my next step is to find the proper kill switch, order it and install it. then remove some interior components and run string-lines in the car and engine bay to get an approximate number of feet I will need when ordering all the wire. then I'll have to know what size wire is ok, as mentioned above 1g for power and 2 g for ground? or ?