Quote:
Originally Posted by BonzoHansen
You physically unplugged the ECM from its harness and checked? You need to check the continuity of the leads with an ohm meter. One probe at the correct pin on the ECM connector the other at the ALDL. A good circuit will be closed (0 resistance). You also may need to check short to ground, one probe at the correct pin on the ECM connector the other to ground. Here you want open (no resistance).
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I checked continuity from ALDL to ECM and had zero ohm. I also checked short to ground and came up with the same thing..looks like it's ECM...
Quote:
Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider
14034321 = Electric Spark Control Module 
so what exactly was going on with the car again ted? i saw that there are 5 different amp ratings on alternators for these cars; 85, 100, 105, 108, and 120. there is a gm tool for testing the alternator.
someone mentioned that box controls the seatbelt light possibly? does that seatbelt light work? does your battery light on the dash work?
the ALCL connector goes like this....
| F | E | D | C | B | A |
| G | - | - | - | - | - |
A - ground
B - Diagnostic "Test Terminal"
C - A.I.R. (if used)
D - C.E. Lamp (CCC)
E - Serial Data
F - T.C.C. (If Used)
G - Fuel Pump
i also read that some control modules may have problems due to cracked solder joints on the circuit board. it can cause the module not to communicate with a scanner or some various intermittent driveability problems.
you can apply heat to the control module to simulate underhood temps. then tap on it with your finger to simulate vehicle vibrations. if the engine stumbles or stalls, there could be an internal problem with the module. |
My problem started as a low voltage issue, I had the alternator checked and I had a new battery at the time. I checked all my wires and upgraded as well as scraped all my main grounds and made sure there was proper contact. Also, I've noticed a slight mis when the car is idling, just a slight drop in RPM then it picks right back up. Finally, I tried tuning the car and I wasn't able to connect through the ALDL.
I was just curious what the black box was, all my noises and dash lights work lol
I didn't try the heat test on the ECM but after checking continuity I'm pretty sure I need to have it rebuilt.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokingSS
my 88 gta had all weird issues back in the day, would randomly stall, volts jump/drop, couldnt connect to ecm, got new ecm, fixed everything, not saying thats def the case for you, but was for me.
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Sounds like it might work for me as well lol