Quote:
Originally Posted by //<86TA>\\
Forward voltage is just the voltage rating of the circuit in question. Reverse current is how much amperage the diode will be able to hold back without failing/shorting open. Not sure how to calculate what kind of reverse amperage your circuits will have however.
I.should have looked at the link first, uA should be miliamps, in this case it would appear the uA rating is what will leak back through the diode
http://www.radio-electronics.com/inf...cteristics.php |
That link is helpful, thanks.
My circuit currents are not high, probably under 10 amps. I am just connecting the wire from the alarm to the running light circuit in the car. Without the diode the interior lights and the chime goes off when the alarm activates or is disabled since it flashes the lights. Previously I had the alarm connected to the turn signal circuits, there are two circuits in the alarms for lighting so I had one connected to each turn. With the running lights, this also seems to cause the headlight side of the circuit to get voltage and the headlight doors go crazy. I am not entirely sure why the headlight circuit is getting voltage, I have been chasing that for a long time.
The headlight and running lights are supposed to be independent, but something is back feeding voltage from the running light circuit and when I put the running lights on only, the headlight doors pop up. I think it has something to do with my HID setup since I think that is when I started having trouble with the whole headlight door, but I haven't followed up with it lately. I liked to put the running lights on to drive with the fog lights as DRLs but since the pop up doors I just stopped. Now since I have had the car all apart I just ran a new wire for the fog light relay to ignition instead of from the running light circuit so I can drive with the fogs on without the running lights.