Update:
got the power steering box back from
www.powersteering.com where it got a full rebuild with various new parts. also was blasted and painted. it will certainly tighten up my steering even more, so thats good for autocross and street driving. cost $340 shipped.
worked on some wiring and covered a bunch of wires in new black split-loom. I know there are other options for wire-covering and fancier stuff; however I have not seen anything that I particularly like or want on my car. I do prefer the look and ease of using the oem style plastic split loom, so that's that.
I also spent a good amount of time cleaning most of the bolts, nuts, washers, and hardware on a wire wheel so that when I bolt everything up, the threads are clean.
pulled off the old power steering pump, water pump pulley, crank pulley, brackets, etc. cleaned them up with a wire wheel. Primer and painted. If I had the extra spending money I would get a bunch of new fancy billet pulleys and components; however I do not. I can always add them later on. I am pretty sure my OEM style alternator upper bracket won't work anymore. So I am either going to have to find a new bracket for it, or change over to a Mid-mount setup. I kinda think the mid mount setup would look better, because on the driver's side, the Power steering pump is mid-mounted. therefore mounting the alternator mid-mount on the passenger side would be more visually appealing? All I would need then is a mid-mount bracket setup, and then measure for a different belt? thoughts??
this existing alternator:
I ordered a new water pump. The proForm one fit my budget and has the increased flow. it is "polished" and had good reviews.
I went with a Champion 2 row (1" wide rows) polished aluminum radiator. Many people I have talked to with higher horsepower thirdgens are using this radiator with good success. The engine builder recommended a 160 degree thermostat, so I got a 160 stat from Meziere. PolarBear was a big help with getting me to order the proper 40 amp relays, sockets, and wire terminals.. for the two oem fans that will be controlled by the holley sniper.
I have yet to order a coolant expansion tank/overflow tank, as I want to see how the radiator and my wiring sits before ordering a ill-fitting tank. Also, have not ordered a t-stat housing, since possibly mine can be reused? I will be buying new hoses to replace my old ones; however, I don't think lower coolant hoses come with the "spring" inside them anymore.. the metal coil that keeps the hose from collapsing on itself? I would like to use that I would think?
oh, yea,
...
and....
the engine is built, broken-in, dyno tested, and has been shipped to my house as of yesterday!!!
On the dyno it cranked out 531 horsepower and 513 foot pounds of torque N/A !!!
AWESOME
I need to order a few more things in the next few days, and I am sure a few more after that.
Upcoming order includes:
- fuel line heat shielding
- fuel line fittings to get my current -8 and -6 lines to mate up to the sniper
- a oil dipstick, specific one for Dart SHP block LOK-ED-5001 ??
- a nicer disptick for my 700R4 to match the oil dipstick
- oil valvoline VR1 15-40 I guess about 7-8 quarts, some for spare ?
- valve cover breathers exposed element or shielded with metal??
- air filter and air filter housing
- a different throttle cable? I have not done research on this yet..
- a different TV (kickdown) cable ? probably?
- replacement header gaskets for my dyno don's headers. the ones I currently have are Earls # 29DD3B. I don't see why these wont work on the Dart heads?
I am NOT doing anything to hookup the nitrous to this engine for a while. I'll need to get everything else sorted out and get myself comfortable with 531hp/513 tq before even thinking of sending a 200 shot at it.
I think I plan on using my current torque converter too for now. it is an Edge racing 9" converter with 2800 rpm stall. thoughts ? Once the build sheet for the engine gets here with the cam specs, I might call the converter company and see what they recommend I do.
so, thats where I am at currently. I have run out of tasks to work on until the engine actaully arrives, and once it is mounted in the car, I can work on running wiring, fuel lines, exhaust, transmission mounting, etc.
