I somewhat remember playing with the tick master on a friend's car but
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It is important to make sure our kit is properly bled and adjusted for optimal function of the entire system.
Since you increase the amount of fluid the system flows by setting the clutch pedal higher, adjustment should begin from the shortest setting possible. The pedal will appear to be about halfway down when compared to its location with the factory cylinder installed. Adjust the turnbuckle in 1-2 turn increments to lengthen the rod (be sure that the rod coming out of the master cylinder itself isn’t spinning). After each adjustment, start the car in neutral and attempt to shift into first gear. If it doesn’t go into gear smoothly, don’t force it (you’ll risk damaging your transmission’s fork pads and/or synchronizers). Simply continue to lengthen the rod until the transmission will slide into first gear smoothly while stopped. At this point, test drive the car to fine tune the adjustment to get the necessary release for higher RPM shifting. DO NOT OVERADJUST THE ROD, or adjust it based on pedal height. If you adjust it to position the pedal at the factory height, you risk over-extending (thus damaging) the pressure plate.
You want to set your kit to flow just enough fluid – not too much, not too little. Correctly installed and bled, you will notice a pedal that is shorter and slightly more firm than it was with the factory master cylinder.
The LS7 Clutch is not alone - as ANY clutch breaks in, the amount of fluid that it needs in order to fully disengage may increase. This is common. Readjustment of our kit is easy and should be done periodically to ensure that you're always disengaging your clutch 100%.
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that is definitely the proper procedure and I do remember once we had it correct, it was as described. Lower than stock and a little firmer.