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Old 02-07-2020, 04:24 PM   #7
IROCZman15
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Roxbury, NJ
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cool thanks fellas!

just as a FYI, I had just simply placed that oil pressure sender in that location for the photo to show what i was talking about visually. Then I removed it; so that is whyI did not put any thread sealant. just for mock-up. I had not intended to install it until the motor is in place, because if that contacted the firewall during the engine install I would be pist that it scratched the new firewall paint. so after I took that photo, I put the OPS back into its plastic peanut butter jar storage container and its been on my parts shelf. --I might look for a 45deg fitting(s)to re-orient it later on. I talked to the engine builder today and he said if all else fails, I can get an adapter fitting and put it into one of the oil galley holes in the shp block, basically could also do as matt mentioned, use the hole near the oil filter, unless the sender housing would be in the way of the headers etc. I'll have to check once engine is installed.
-- but I do need it, and want it to work the dash gauge, so I do appreciate your advice and for noticing it had no thread sealant (yet).

also, today when I talked to Pat (engine builder) I asked about the valve covers. he said that if I was purely doing drag racing and hard acceleration driving he would want the breathers at the front of each valve cover. for "normal" street driving, its ok to have them staggered or to the back of the engine, but to be mindful of any oil mist escaping during hard acceleration and if that happens to move the breathers to the front. he again told me not to run a pcv system on this engine.


He suggested using the integrated Holley sniper fuel pump relay and bypassing the racetronix one. That poses a problem, because I would then have to drop the exhaust, rear axle, and perhaps the tank just to connect the sniper's long blue fuel pump wire to the wiring at the top of the fuel tank?? Its a heavier gauge wire than the oem tan wire, so I couldn't just splice it in.... I would have to run it all the way back to join the heavy wire leading to the racetronix fuel pump power wire at the fuel tank's bulkhead?? right? That sounds like a ton more work than me just removing the holley sniper fuel pump relay, and running the snipers fuel pump trigger wire to my oem tan wire, to the racetronix relay (which is already working and neatly mounted by the fuel tank). why would I not want to do this?? Am I missing something? Either way, one of the relays has to go away, and it seems less work to use my existing racetronix relay and wiring, as opposed to eliminating that and running more wiring and more connections by using the holley sniper relay setup. thoughts??


lastly, for the ignition questions, he informed me that I SHOULD use my MSD Digital6 CD Capacitive Discharge box with this engine. it will need the big spark power from it. Thankfully I did not sell it and it can be used, since it is an expensive part I would't want to have to buy now.
So I will have to call holley, or find the exact proper wiring schematic.... Pat said I will need the MSD box, the holley sniper, the msd distributor, and a msd canister style ignition coil (i'll still have to buy that). does this sound correct? what about that msd coil driver little gizmo? this ignition wiring/component topic is the area where I am currently MOST confused. I'm sure it will make sense to me soon, but just hasn't clicked in my brain yet. advice is appreciated

my current 9.5" torque converter is getting shipped back to Edge racing tomorrow and they are going to get it set up for a 3,500 stall speed or somewhere around there. he will run the numbers for real when he gets it in the mail, but today we quickly discussed my cam specs and engine combination and he agrees that I should have a better converter setup. Luckily I will save some money not needing to buy a brand new one.
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