View Single Post
Old 02-16-2020, 11:30 PM   #15
Meet Coordinator
IROCZman15's Avatar
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Roxbury, NJ
Posts: 1,694
iTrader: (6)
grazi: you are right. I was indeed merging the self-learning feature with the timing-control feature. my mistake. I am new to the EFi and tuning stuff. brand new. so I have a lot to learn, but thanks for your advice!

Larry: awesome, I will look into it. I was able to get a good angle/position with my current OPS configuration. it clears the firewall enough and it shows I have oil pressure on my dashboard gauge too. but if I need to redo the OPS, I will be sure to take your advice. thanks

Arock: thanks man. it is coming along indeed.


got the fuel system finished up. the relay I finally decided to use was the racetronix one since it is nearby the pump, uses heavier gauge power wire, and was already installed by me a few years ago and has worked great ever since. I did have to remove the Holley FP relay from the brand new sniper harness. I also had to shorten my -8 feed and -6 return fuel lines and hook them up to the sniper. while I was at it, I replaced the magnetic fuel filter.

Got my new dipsticks, linkage cables, and bracket. also a mid-mount setup for the alternator. only some of these parts have been installed as of now

next, the headers were bolted on to the engine along with new Remflex header gaskets. the headers are DynoDon's 1.75" "mid length" headers. I had them on the old engine with the DynoDon's Y-pipe and knew they would fit so I plan to use these until I actually do need something bigger (probably when the nitrous gets hooked up)

Installed the Dorman lower radiator hose and bought a stainless steel coil/spring from Earls to help prevent it from "sucking itself closed" ever. Also a Dorman upper hose from autozone, but setup for 3rd gen TBI style mounting. it works, but maybe I will change to something fancier later on?

spent many hours stringing wiring together in the engine bay. My goal has always been to keep the visible wiring to a minimum. I like to run spark plug wires underneath the headers. Much of the other wiring also measured, cut, crimped and put in split-loom to be tucked under the headers. it took a while and my fingers are beat to hell from that and the braided fuel line work.

for the ignition system. I was able to find the proper schematic for what ineeded to do. The components are the holley sniper, MSD 85551 distributor, MSD digital 6 plus CD box, and a MSD ignition coil. last week I called Holley and asked if the ignition coil I had been using on my TPI setup would work, or if i needed a canister style. I was told hat my MSD Blaster 8226 (220 mili-amps) coil would work for now, but not for the big amps needed for nitrous. It was suggested that I could upgrade to the MSD 8207 coil which puts out 300 mili-amps, or even better, go to the MSD HVC-2 8253 coil (450 mili amps). thats a bit expensive, so I am not sure if I can do that right now, so currently, my MSD 8226 coil is what I am using. thoughts?

when everything is wrapped up, I will have to spend some time polishing the fresh red paint, and also the valve covers are coming off and getting a good hand polishing. they are getting a bit "used" already, but I will get them shining; thats for sure.


my goal was to try to test-fire the engine by the end of this weekend. I checked over all the wiring, fuel lines for leaks, engine bay for loose tools and items, filled up 6 quarts of Valvoline VR1 20-50 racing oil (very thick oil!), added about 4 gallons of 93 octane fuel, and cranked it over.

It cranked for a second, coughed, and ran for 2 seconds. I was excited. So I cranked it again, and it fired up, ran (roughly) for a half a minute at idle (see youtube video) . I shut it off and noticed it was running very very rich. it even sneezed a bit of fuel through the sniper. I checked on the sniper handheld and opened the butterflies to let the intake vent out. cranked it over again about 10 mins later and it ran about the same, but still rich. lots of smoke and smell in the garage. but it ran! (alternator belt is a little loose, will tighten that) also, FYI it is just open headers for now, not even a y-pipe until I get the transmission back installed. I wonder if the o2 sensor is reading badly because of just an open header exit 2" away from the sensor?

short VIDEO:

so, I will have to look into the running rich issue. I will have to spend some time with the sniper tutorial, the handheld, and maybe call holley tech support to ask some questions.
I still need to finish wiring up the cooling fans/relays, and I have yet to install the actual throttle cable and bracket.

The torque converter is in California getting redone, and hopefully it will be back soon. then I can install the transmission and do a road-test.
1987 IROC-Z - modified

Last edited by IROCZman15; 02-16-2020 at 11:34 PM.
IROCZman15 is offline   Reply With Quote