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Old 02-19-2020, 10:37 PM   #23
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IROCZman15's Avatar
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Roxbury, NJ
Posts: 1,693
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Matt: cool. I rechecked with Dana and he said for all his transmission builds, he only uses the proper SPX "sealed power" filters that definitely work with the CAT fluid . he assured me that the trans will run cooler, live longer, and keep the planetaries alive if I do some on-track road course racing etc.

grazi: I forgot about disabling the O2 sensor! I may try it tomorrow. or, I might just bolt up the Y-pipe, it only takes a few minutes to do it. I haven't dug in too deep with the handheld sniper device yet.
- as for timing, I am not having the sniper control timing (yet) I want to have the car on the road and sort out any other gremlins I need to adjust before getting deeper into the ignition. So, currently the distributor is exactly the same as it was when the engine was built a few weeks ago. All I did was take the cap off real quick, and put it back on. It is a regular MSD 85551, with the advance springs and weights controlling the timing. My MSD box and coil supply the power. Actually, for curiosity sake, I should put a timing light on it one day once I have it running again.

Tomorrow I will setup the Lokar throttle cable and its bracket. I also will build the relays for the cooling fans and test/trigger them using the sniper handheld.

I spoke to Andre at Edge Racing Converters today on the phone. He had my converter cut open and cleaned up. He said all internal parts looked great, and there was minimal wear after 2 years of use. So, He looked at my cam specs, rear gear ratio, and we discussed that I want the car to be first and foremost a street car... but also be able to do a track day or autoX event. He is going with a 3,400 stall speed. The converter has anti-balooning plates in it. It will come with a renewed 2 year warranty. He knows I plan to spray some nitrous at it occasionally too, and that the nitrous will be ramped in progressively by the sniper unit.

I plan on using 4th gear TCC lockup still, but I am not sure if I am going to do it using a toggle switch (like I did for 2 years) or go with an automatically controlled kit. The trans builder recommended the painless wiring kit, but warned me that it is more expensive than most other kits. I can always add this later, so I am going to hold off for now, and probably just keep my manually activated toggle switch that I have been used to.
1987 IROC-Z - modified
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