View Single Post
Old 12-22-2019, 09:08 PM   #93
IROCZman15
10 Second Club / Meet Coordinator
 
IROCZman15's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Roxbury, NJ
Posts: 2,100
iTrader: (8)
Thanks Larry!
Bruces speed shop only had the 1 gauge wire in house, but they can order more of it, or 1/0 if I request it. unfortunately their shop will be closed from X-mas all the way to January 2.. so that's unfortunate. Therefore I was considering buying the wire tomorrow and some terminals to just get started, but probably not having everything I'd need to complete the job. Bruce has always been friendly with me, and he told me that If I buy cables and terminals from him, he would gladly let me use his $600 hydraulic lug/terminal compressor in the back of the shop with his help. I shop there often, but sometimes the prices are high. Their price for 1gauge welding cable is 20 cents and inch. ... So I'm undecided if I'll buy everything there, or shop around elsewhere instead.

As for the ground connecting both cylinder heads, I had read somewhere that it was a good idea, but its extra, and not really required. Also, There is a wire from the engine block/head to the body/chassis, its a blue line and is drawn by cylinder #1 in my sketch. Larry, Is this what you are referring to, or did you mean another ground wire I am missing still? Please let me know. I've seen that braided/woven ground lines often, I could do that, or use some sheathed black 1 gauge wire remaining from my other grounds, but I'll definitely have one from the engine block/heads --> chassis/frame.

When I was measuring, I was a bit generous with the measurements. I err'ed on the side of adding a bit extra wire. I even built in a 1 foot "slack loop" that I will leave under the rear passenger seat bucket in case lines/wires need to be moved or adjusted. My first thought was that I might need the slack for a future roll bar install (at S&W hopefully), and if I ran the lines tight along the doorframe, they would have extreme difficulty getting them slacked enough to be moved in order to safely weld down the 6"x6" floor plate for the main roll bar hoop. So i've added in some extra length to the lines.

I have read about the solder pellets. If for some reason I decide not to use Bruce's hydraulic wire crimper and go the solder route, I will do it with solder pellets.


I gotta do some research next about this re-settable circuit breaker!! that concept is brand new to me. I would like to mount it in the spare-tire area to be hidden but accessible. what line(s) would it go on? a heavy amp one on the line coming from alternator --> kill switch??? how about a lower amp one on the line going from the engine bay junction box--> the under dash fuse panel ?? none on the line going to the starter right?

Thanks guys!
__________________
1987 IROC-Z - modified

IROCZman15 is offline   Reply With Quote