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Old 04-20-2020, 10:49 PM   #84
IROCZman15
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Roxbury, NJ
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cool, thanks Larry, yup, as you educated me in person about the knock sensor, I then kinda took that idea of having one, and after learning about what you said, decided I won't be diving into that territory. you had some super well formed factual info about the knock sensor, and I trust your expertise in this field, for sure. I don't feel like guessing on experimenting with any knock sensor combination and then being wrong and having to deal with the unintended consequences of false knock, or it not detecting knock. However, When I sent my last set of GCF tune files to my tuner he informed me that he is not seeing any detonation in the logs. In my reply (which I typed up last night) I asked him what I could/should look for in my datalogs that would be an indication of detonation/knock. When he replies and answers my question, hopefully it will be a way that I can continually look at my datalogs and then be able to observe if I am knocking or about to be.

Yea, I am happy that I did the PS pump. It was unsightly, and my eye was drawn to it every time I opened the hood. I think I will be holding off on any other pulleys for the current year. perhaps winter I will make a conversion. I am happy this setup is working great and the new PS pulley, bracket, tank, pump looks good too. So, this is the configuration I will stick with. I did toy around with the idea of a Gm type 2 pump with smaller tank which you mentioned to me. I decided to stay "true" to the gen 1 SBC engine theme and went with this one, also because I didnt have to redo any fluid lines.



Sent the tuner my "tune 4" datalogs and "learned GCF 4" last night. Some small adjustments to the IAC and the hot restart were made to tune 3 file. The cold start is now getting really good and the engine will usually fire up quickly with out any need to work the throttle at all. He is still adjusting VE and AE in a few parameters on various tables. My hot idle is set for 872 rpm.
- we started the full throttle tuning too. starting with 32-34 deg advance throughout WOT. I am assuming we will be bringing this number up higher somewhere close to the 37-38 range? Pat (engine builder) had me setting the total advance timing at 38 deg when I had the mechanical distributor weights/springs controlling the timing. I am curious now though, with the holley ecu controlling timing, will it still be in the 38 deg range, or will it be completely different timing numbers with ecu timing control? should I get that 38 number out of my head and just have the tuner read the logs and adjust timing according to data, even if it results in WOT timing advance in the 35 deg range?

- he mentioned a cool little useful trick to calculate horsepower from "fuel flow data". It gives you an approximate HP number if you double the fuel flow nmber.... So, on one of my WOT datalogs, my max fuel flow was 266.6 lbs/hr. So if I double that fuel flow number, my horsepower would be 533.2 hp ? (which is very close to the 531 hp shown on the engine dyno sheet!) and this flow number was at 6120 rpm, (also close to dyno sheet, see page 1 of thread) and this happened with 33.9 deg advance ignition timing at that point in the log. Seems cool if it is somewhat accurate. There is also a similar trick to calculate torque numbers using the VE table. This all was new to me, and I want to check it again as time goes on, especially if we bring in more WOT timing and if my fuel flow numbers go upwards.


Just saturday I hit the 500 mile mark with the new engine. I was told I could go to 1,000 miles before the first oil change by Pat, but curiosity got the best of me and I will be doing an oil and filter change tomorrow. I have an oil filter cutter too, so I will open up the filter and examine it.

-- Aside from the very obvious stuff, should I be checking for anything else on, in, around the engine while I am under there, now that it is broken in after 500 miles?. typical bolt check, zip-tie tightening, etc? I might shim the starter since every now and then I hear it "clang" when/if the engine didnt fire off. This was more noticeable weeks ago when the engine was slow to turn over before the cold start and hot start tune was dialed in. Regardless, I might put a shim under the starter and remeasure the flexplate teeth engagement. Other than that, I'm just enjoying driving it.
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1987 IROC-Z - modified

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