NJFBOA - Home of New Jersey's Camaros and Firebirds - View Single Post - vehicle prep and upgrades PRIOR to next years 500hp sbc with N20 engine swap

IROCZman15 · 12-29-2019, 09:41 PM

yes, thanks Adam. I sometimes get in my own thoughts too much and forget that the simplest answer is usually true. So you are right, the alternator was disconnected when i triggered the circuit breaker, but this alone will not stop the engine from running off of battery. makes sense.

wretched73: thanks. I read a lot about 2 post vs 4 post switches. I am not using a remote starter solenoid which could complicate things more.. and I didnt want to run the alternator wire back to be on the same terminal of the kill switch as the battery feed will be on..because.... Even though a 2 pole switch will take away power to the ecm and fuel pump etc, the alternator still feeds the battery for a moment or two while it slows down. the way my simple brain (still learning this topic as I go along) understands it, is that a 4 terminal switch instantly cuts/separates all the battery, alternator, electrical feeds instead of allowing the alternator to have a short "run on" period, which could be dangerous in a bad crash/emergency? but, when the alternator power is cut-off abruptly, a random surge can possibly pass through the wire and cause problems/spikes.. which is why a circuit breaker device is used to halt that surge. the 4 post switch adds in the need for a few extra wires, but it is recommended to ensure quick and immediate power disconnect for everything in an instant.

anyone else with more knowledge care to elaborate and/or to correct me?

I just ordered a 150 amp circuit breaker and the bus-bar/distribution block a little while ago.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I don't think I'll be using the black "ground" one, but I might decide to. unsure if I want all grounds going to it, or If I will just run grounds elsewhere nearby each component that needs a ground. I might use the block though, . I'll have to see how much space I have in the old battery tray area and how I can lay things out; neatly, spaced apart, and safely.

thanks for the help everyone. keep the comments, suggestions, and advice coming. This is my first time doing this, and I want it to be done correctly.

12-29-2019, 09:41 PM	#100
IROCZman15 10 Second Club / Meet Coordinator Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Roxbury, NJ Posts: 2,101 iTrader: (8)	yes, thanks Adam. I sometimes get in my own thoughts too much and forget that the simplest answer is usually true. So you are right, the alternator was disconnected when i triggered the circuit breaker, but this alone will not stop the engine from running off of battery. makes sense. wretched73: thanks. I read a lot about 2 post vs 4 post switches. I am not using a remote starter solenoid which could complicate things more.. and I didnt want to run the alternator wire back to be on the same terminal of the kill switch as the battery feed will be on..because.... Even though a 2 pole switch will take away power to the ecm and fuel pump etc, the alternator still feeds the battery for a moment or two while it slows down. the way my simple brain (still learning this topic as I go along) understands it, is that a 4 terminal switch instantly cuts/separates all the battery, alternator, electrical feeds instead of allowing the alternator to have a short "run on" period, which could be dangerous in a bad crash/emergency? but, when the alternator power is cut-off abruptly, a random surge can possibly pass through the wire and cause problems/spikes.. which is why a circuit breaker device is used to halt that surge. the 4 post switch adds in the need for a few extra wires, but it is recommended to ensure quick and immediate power disconnect for everything in an instant. anyone else with more knowledge care to elaborate and/or to correct me? I just ordered a 150 amp circuit breaker and the bus-bar/distribution block a little while ago. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I don't think I'll be using the black "ground" one, but I might decide to. unsure if I want all grounds going to it, or If I will just run grounds elsewhere nearby each component that needs a ground. I might use the block though, . I'll have to see how much space I have in the old battery tray area and how I can lay things out; neatly, spaced apart, and safely. thanks for the help everyone. keep the comments, suggestions, and advice coming. This is my first time doing this, and I want it to be done correctly. __________________ 1987 IROC-Z - modified Last edited by IROCZman15; 12-29-2019 at 09:52 PM.