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Old 12-19-2017, 08:55 AM   #1
IROCZman15
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vehicle prep and upgrades PRIOR to next years 500hp sbc with N20 engine swap

Hey guys, I figured I would put this topic out there to the group to see about getting some advice and input from you guys about my plans to take the car to the next level. I won’t have the budget to buy my new engine package this winter, but I am certain that right around this time next year, I’ll be ordering up the engine that this car needs. My plans are for a gen 1 style small block chevrolet with a modern efi setup on it. I will absolutely NOT be going with any type of LS style setup. I am uninterested, so please don’t mention LS to me. That is not the type of engine I want under the hood for a plethora of reasons. Also, please don't freak out and shout at me about how there are cheaper options out there.. feel free to show me, but please don't get amped up about stuff, or my $spending.. unless I am totally misguided.

Sorry this is a long post with lots of writing, but I’m just putting it all out there.
I am pretty dead set on the major components/features of the engine, and have been sourcing out crate engines and long blocks, across the net, as well as reading many forum posts, reviews, magazine articles, and product information. I want a Dart SHP block, forged crank and pistons, roller cam and rocker setup, great cylinder heads, topped with a Holley Sniper Efi system (or FiTech), and capable of taking 200 wet shots of N20 with ease(on a carb style plate). The goal is for naturally aspirated 500+ hp/tq at the flywheel, supplemented with the N20 on track days. Engine has to be relaible, and not just for racing.. I drive the car all over and it has to be able to handle 4+ hour long trips. I want something a little more than a 383, so I have been looking at 406, 421, 427, 434 cid packages.

Here is my top choice:
http://www.nyesautomotive.net/406_525hp_EFI.html
This is my second choice, however with the Efi instead of the carb setup in the link. http://enginefactory.com/434CSB575HP.htm
That company is very local to me here in NJ and I stopped by their shop last month to discuss broad details and even brought the car for them to look over.

I have several other similar engine options, but that is not the primary focus of this thread. What my goal is here, is to ask for some ideas/input on modifications and upgrades I can/should do to the car PRIOR to dropping in the engine.

In a nutshell, the car has a crate 350 longblock that I was stuck getting back in HS when I blew up the old 305. It is dead on reliable, but very underpowered. I have a “Pro Street” 700R4 transmission package from Dana at Pro Built Automatics and an Edge racing 2,600 rpm converter. Those were brand new as of October 2016. Unfortunately just October of this year, it started acting up on the 3-4 shift, so just this past Sunday I removed the transmission, and will be shipping it back to Dana for a refresh, which is covered under his 18 month warranty. The package was rated to 675 hp/tq, but I might maybe have him upgrade it to the 750 hp package. Maybe. The rear will be the weak point of the powertrain after the engine is done, but I can live with that until it blows, and get a 12 bolt from moser, strange or currie. It is currently the stock axle housing with 3.73 richmond gears and a posi unit.

DSCN5056 by David Martin, on Flickr

The car has a S&W racing subframe connector kit welded in, along with their torque arm and its relocation mount. Fully adjustable front and rear suspension parts from UMI performace. Upgraded front and rear brakes are from Ed Miller at flynbye, 13” up front and 12” out back (C4HD setup, PBR calipers, raybestos rotors, braided lines). The front is lowered on 2” lowering spindles, and all corners have MOOG springs. Shocks struts are curretly Tokico adjustables, but those are coming out in January and some Koni yellows are going in. The car weighs 3,422 pounds as of August this year, and that is with a full tank of gas and full tank of nitrous, but without me in it. 18x8 “ and 18x10” Boze forged aluminum wheels with Nitto 555 tires that are good enough to last me one more full year. Removed heat and air conditioning, MSD Digital 6 ignition control box, line lock, deleted smog setup, radiator is 8 years old but always flushed clean, auxillary transmission cooler, full interior with sound system, Dyno Dons coated headers and y-pipe ( I think 1.75” headers ??), to a hooker 3” cat back exhaust with an electric cut out along the main-pipe.

DSCN2436 by David Martin, on Flickr

DSCN3130 by David Martin, on Flickr


So, with all of the above being mentioned, I am looking to tackle some of the modifications that the new powerplant will need, over this winter. The car is currently up 24” of the ground (in my garage), since I just removed the transmission and driveshaft two days ago. I am wondering what I can do now.

Fuel system:
The new engine will certainly require me to upgrade my fuel system, especially the in-tank pump. After some research, if I wasn’t using the wet nitrous shot, I probably would be fine with a 255lph pump. I’d rather not risk running out of fuel though, so I am thinking… just go with one rated at 340lph like the aeromotive one: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...t/model/camaro
…. My question is, if I were to put this (or any other recommended pump) in the car now would it wreak havoc on my current fuel system and TPI?? Or would it just work as normal and return unused fuel back to the tank like the current/stock setup? Could anything be damaged? Should I do the fuel pump now since the car is up in the air, driveshaft is out, and I will be taking down the rear-end soon to install Koni Yellow shocks anyways? I also run a Holley AFPR on the Tpi set in the neighborhood of 49psi if memory serves me correctly. Also, how about fuel lines? Should I be looking to upgrade my fuel lines for a bigger diameter feed/return line? If so, how will this work at the tank bulkhead area ?

Trans:
Mentioned above, can go more into details if needed. Should be back in about 4-6 weeks either with a freshened up 675 hp limit or with an upgraded 750hp limit.

Driveshaft:
Stock steel one currently, won’t last long, so I will eventually destroy it with the new engine, and end up ordering a performance one from Denny’s or elsewhere

Rear end:
Would love to install a 12 bolt this year, but might not be able to budget $ for it. Also, slightly curious to see how long the 10 bolt might last with the new engine next year. Could probably order one from strange,currie,moser and keep it off in the corner of the garage for when the 10 bolt falls apart though. Not sure if I want to go with a ford 9” though.

Exhaust:
Kinda skeptical about the inside dimensions of the headers and hooker 3” setup choking the new engine. Maybe I could keep the headers, and then eliminate the y pipe and have a true-dual 2.5” setup fabricated ? not sure that I should do that now though with the current weak 350 ? that would be overkill and prob hurt performance

Cooling:
While the car never has overheating issues, it might be a good idea to get a head-start on this maybe. The radiator is a stock replacement style, and has been in the car for 8 years. Every two years I drain it, and drain the block by taking out the knock sensor. I do a flush job and refill. Everything comes out clean-ish. Water pump is stock. 180 degree thermostat. BOTH puller fans are wired to spin anytime the ignition is on. Should I invest in a bigger aluminum radiator or hold off? I’d like to reuse the dual puller fans, and I’ll probably just end up putting them on a toggle switch to a relay that I can control from the dashboard. The new engine will come with a water pump on it already.

Pulleys and accessories:
I have the option with the engine shop in NJ to have a set of March pulleys and brackets put on. Their price is expensive though. My stock PS pump and reservoir is doing just fine. I run a 140 amp chrome powermaster alternator that is 2 years old and working great. I could reuse those I would think? I have a Hitachi high-torque mini starter too that I could reuse as well.

Roll Cage:
With the power that the new engine setup will put down, I would hope to be running below the 11.49 second mark, which would mean that I am required to have at least a 4 point roll bar setup to run at Englishtown, Island, Atco etc. I will never be doing an 8 point cage, and the most I would ever do is a 6 point setup with door bar swingouts. Stopped by ProFab Chassisworks here in Nj and they quoted me $2,200 as a starting price! With options closer to $3,000..and at that point I said to myself, that $ would much better be spent a full 12 bolt rear end instead. So, yea, I’ll need a age, but I might wait until I am required to have it, since having this car with a weak 350 and a cage really isnt a cool vibe.

Wheels tires:
Tough one here….I love my wheel setup but they are heavy and too pretty to beat to hell in any type of drag/road course racing or autoX. I will need 4 new tires on these at the end of next year, probably a 200 treadwear nitto, bfgoodrich, or falken. For specific drag racing, maybe I’ll find a light set of centerline convo pros but they would have to be 17” diameter to clear the C4HD brake setups. Might wait on this until the car is setup, running, and already making passes.


What else am I forgetting here?? I know I typed a LOT, but I wanted to put it all on the table, so hopefully I can map out a well thought out plan of attack. Since the car is up in the air and not going anywhere for a good 3 months.. I want to tackle anything I can (within reason) to get the ball rolling in the right direction for 500+ hp in winter of 2018/19.



DSCN4291 by David Martin, on Flickr

IMG_7519 by David Martin, on Flickr

David-Martin-1987-Chevrolet-Camaro-DriveOPTIMA-NJMP-2017_184 by David Martin, on Flickr
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Last edited by IROCZman15; 12-19-2017 at 09:06 AM.
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