I actually had black ones and blue ones. I liked the blue better. That car had the black roof and mirrors stock. It was Sebring silver. I too thought the mirrors would help break it up a bit, but it looked goofy. Like some big ole ears sticking out. Oh, also had the door handles black. But again, I experimented and the blue looked better to me.
I contemplated leaving the roof halo black and painting the cetner section blue. Kind of like an 80s 911. I think it would have looked bad ass, but masking that would not be clean. I tried and that little u channel was too hard to get straight. I honestly just got tired.
Since I'm in here, I got my new trans all together. It came without a bellhousing and let me tell you, trying to remove the old bell housing was pretty rough. I have the proper tools, torx plus, and I was breaking the centers out of the bolts with a breaker bar. I wound up having to weld a head bolt to the head of the bolt and remove it with an impact gun. The heat from the heavy weld helped break the bolt loose and all but one came right out. I had to reweld one bolt 3 times. I never broke my weld, I was actually breaking the head of the bolt off.
I got a 9" billet converter form FTI. Its a nice piece. 3200 stall. I don't know what cam I am going with, so I had to kind of guess. It will be a street car so I think that will work out.
I found a torn o ring on the input shaft. I believe that is what was causing my lock up issues. I don't remember it being that way the first time but who knows.
I swapped out the front springs for 550# BMRs. The nose was way too soft. I also put SLP Bilstiens in there. Cheap yes, but better than the Monroe that were in there lol.
The control arm bushings were just gone. I could move the wheel about .5" back and forth. The arms are all done but if I had to do it over I would get tubular ones. These control arms are ****. I can put it in a vise and twist it probably 30 degrees by hand. Does not make me feel good. I could launch the ones on my 67 through a brick wall. The 98's my girley ass self can twist in half by hand.
Note for the masses: Don't buy Moog ball joints, unless of course your lower control arm is a bit sloppy. I guess mine is not and the 2 thousandths they are over size does not fit. These are not "oversize" ball joints, they just come a lil bigger assuming you have stretched the arm taking them out. I guess I am too good as mine is fine and I can't get the damn things seated. I have a clamp ball joint press, I've used heat and beat the shizola out of them with max pressure on the clamp and they will not seat. They do not of course fit in my hydruallic press. So, I dunno what I am going to do. They are in there, they might have a 1/32" to go, but I hate shoddy work. I could spend more money and buy GM, but I bet these dman things have now made the hole too big. I took a break, and will maybe remove them and try and clean the holes up a bit with a hone. Not really feeling buying $450 arms when I already blew the money on poly bushings and the joints. Unless one of you guys wants a killer deal on some lower control arms with poly bushings and almost seated ball joints.
For the record the stock joint is 2.06" Moog is 2.09". In Moog's defense all the quality joints I could get my hands on locally were 2.08, or 2.09. The cheap crappy ones were 2.08 or 2.07.
I own/have owned every generation of Camaro. 4th gens are by far, the biggest pain in the ass to work on. I'm going to build a 3rd gen after this, so we'll see if my opinion changes. I didn't get too far into my Iroc. Lol, I love even saying Iroc. Brings back so many memories. I'm doing a 90ish RS next. Tubbed pro-tourer.
Anyways, I hope to be on the road in the snow this weekend but I doubt it.
If any of you need a 4l60E core let me know. Its taking up space and I will let it go for scrap price.
By the way I've been calling this car "baby blue". Lol not really a butt kicking, name taking kind of feeling, but it is what it is. My 67 is slate blue and he is the big brother.
