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Old 11-12-2004, 12:39 PM   #4
Fasterthanyou
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Montgomery NJ
Posts: 1,271
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iamsickofitall
all your basic nitrous questions are answered here in the link...the guys that post in this forum are very knowlegeable...convinced me to get a system...it's in the mail...the "halo kit" from nitrodaves.com

http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=140389

btw...if you're gonna want to spray a dry kit (one that relies on the fuel injectors only to add fuel), spray before the MAF

wet kits add nitrous and fuel together and should be placed after the MAF
Hmm.. I don't see where they tell you you need to replace your oil at like every 500 miles after a few uses of nitrous. I wonder why . Nitrous is some nasty stuff and you WILL get blow-by, change your oil frequenty when you use the bottle.
Also spraying before the MAF is a terrible idea. I don't know who came up with that but it's bad for the MAF and the MAF can't "read" nitrous mass flow. It's designed for mass AIR flow, not mass Nitrous and Air flow, lol. If peolpe are getting away with it it's because the nitrous is cooling down the intake air temp a LOT, not because the MAF is measuring it accurately. I'd NEVER do a shot before MAF, that's a hack job. It'll work so long as you don't spray directly onto the MAF heating wires. If you must, shoot the nitrous into the side of the intake pipe before the MAF, this way you don't damage the MAF.
Do a dry shot if you've got an aftermarket computer (or source coded GM computer) where you have LARGE injectors and a digital input that can tell the ecm when to start running rich. That's how you run a dry shot!
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, Jon
Owner of a Red Sled.
If it\'s EFI I can tune it. Specialize in 82-95 GM (yes Lt1\'s)
\"If you can leave black marks on a straight from the time you exit a corner till the time you brake for the next turn.......Then, you have enough horsepower\" - Mark Donohue
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