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Old 01-15-2020, 11:18 PM   #113
IROCZman15
10 Second Club / Meet Coordinator
 
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Roxbury, NJ
Posts: 2,100
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yea, when I get some time, I'll call or email Jegs about it. looks like its a different metal on that one distributor cap's post. very interesting, but odd.


project update:
after pulling the engine out on Saturday, I removed the rest of the "stuff" in the engine bay. brake booster, brake master cylinder, line lock, old combination valve, brake lines, fuel lines, steering shaft, steering box, msd box, aluminum firewall plate, engine mounts, etc.

I shipped the oem steering box out to www.powersteering.com and they will do a full rebuild/refresh on it. since its the original one with 175,000 miles on it, and I plan to keep this car for a long time, as well as wanting to do more autcross, it felt like a smart decision. One of the fittings was frozen in the box, so in removing the fitting (of the return line) it broke.... I will need a new "return" hose aka "fluid cooler" line, so I'll have to find somewhere that sells those. any suggestions? Is the $13 one from autozone and advanced auto parts pretty much good enough?







I got the motor mounts out, and took them apart. the rubber was deformed, but not destroyed. I ordered some Polyurethane ones from Prothane. they should be here friday. I'll paint the metal clamshell and install the poly inserts, but have heard its quite a challenge to get the new mount's bolted into place...




I de-greased the K member and lower body/suspension parts. Did a bunch of cleanup work and stripping with the wire wheel as well. I then got out the welder and spent a good amount of time filling in probably upwards of 30 holes in various parts of the engine bay sheetmetal that I don't plan on ever needing. They were mostly from the factory and were used to mount many components that I have removed from the car permanently. I then did a single coat of body filler, and starting tomorrow I will be sanding that down and doing another layer. then primer



I also had a large 3" wide U-bolt/clamp that I used to make a "tow hook" for possible future use. If this car ever needs to be brought around on a trailer or towed, I wanted a central hook/reciever that I could strap tow hooks to. I welded a piece of steel angle iron to the tapered section of the K member to make a larger flat bottom to the Kmember. then I welded the U bolt to it horizontally. I wish I had an ARC welder with me, but I did the best I could with my Mig welder. I did as many passes as it took, and the welds got sloppy after a while, but hopefully it is structurally solid. Bonus: it also gives me a larger flat spot for me to put a floor jack. I always hated putting the floor jack on the K member because of the small flat area right next to the angled/tapered front section. The new to hook is horizontal so it only added about 1/2 in reduced ground clearance...however my S&W torque arm crossmember, exhaust, and air dam plastic are much lower than this new tow hook is, so it will not be the lowest object under the car.










Next I have to work on cutting some panels out of 1/8" think aluminum to clean up the firewall, battery tray, evap charcoal canister tray, and some other open areas. I plan to sheet metal screw OR rivet these in place, and then they will get painted red like the rest of the underhood sheetmetal.


I also gotta take some time out to work on the brake system and figure out what fittings/adapters I will need. I will be buying a 25' roll of 3/16" Nickel-Copper line and making my own lines for a clean and orderly appearance.







Below are some photos of where I filled holes on the framerails, firewall, upper radiator support, and strut towers. Welded the holes shut and ground them smooth.

















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1987 IROC-Z - modified


Last edited by IROCZman15; 01-15-2020 at 11:25 PM.
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