March Pulleys on an LT1

[IROCZBeast]

anyone run them or know about them?

I was thinking about ordering them from summit. Its $104.88 for the crank and alternator pulley.

I'm not to informed about whats involved in installing them. Is it difficult to install them, would I be able to do it in my driveway? Is there a catch to running pulleys, something I'm missing?

Any opinions or information on them would be much appreciated.

Thanks.

[coldkilla]

i have those pulleys on my car now. they are fairly easy to put on but you will need a pulley puller and access underneath your car. if you buy them from summit, where i did, tell them you need the new drive belt too. the length changes so you will need this new belt, they know which one. if you are running a lot of audio equipment you will start to undercharge, volt meter dipping below 13, when you are stopped at a light with the radio on and other accessories (wiper, heater, etc.). i bought this battery kit and solved that problem tho.
http://www.innovativewiring.com/Chev...CamaroPage.htm

[ar0ck]

The only real difference I noticed are the power surges sitting at lights or at start up. Just remember they don't charge as fast as usual.

[IROCZBeast]

I could probably rent a pulley puller from autozone or an autoparts store I geuss.

Would I be able to do this on ramps and jackstands in my driveway?

I'm not running many electrical things in my car, all I have is an aftermarket head unit and thats it.

Thanks for that link though, those cables look like they may be worth it.

[Injuneer]

March makes two different sets.... a "performance" series where both the crank pulley and the alternator puller are underdrive units. Then they make a "power & amp" series that includes an underdrive crank pulley and an overdrive alternator pulley to help the alternator satisfy the demands of a big audio system, etc.

There is not much power to be gained with these, and using an overdrive alternator pulley is just giving back some of the small power savings.

The March units are also "sandwich" type.... you pull the stock damper/pulley off the hub, put the new pulley behind it and bolt the stocker back on the hub. The better way to do it is with the integrated underdrive pulley/damper from ASP. Less rotating mass.

In theory, the stock damper/pulley should not need the "puller" to get it off. But after many years of rust buildup, a bit of persuasion is often needed to break the pulley loose from the hub.

Its also a bit difficult to get the alternator pulley off. Its hard to hold the alternator from turning when you use a wrench on the nut that holds the pulley on. Using an air impact gun often works, but it can still be a difficult job.