Fuel Pump & Injectors! - NJFBOA - Home of New Jersey's Camaros and Firebirds

ar0ck · 02-23-2007, 04:53 PM

So its time to put a big ol' Fuel Pump & Injectors in the old LT1.

What do you guys suggest for a combo or set up for a rather large Heads & Cam car?

I was thinking of going with the Racetronix Fuel System w/ 255 LPH High-Pressure Fuel Pump and Series II Plug-&-Play Wiring Harness (includes chassis ground & booster pump plug-&-play option) that runs $249.95 from Thunder Racing.

But what should I do for size wise for injectors?

I know I'll need a tune but what prices should I expect to pay, and who has the best prices?

Batman · 02-23-2007, 06:03 PM

For just heads and cam I wouldn't even bother with a stand alone. Just get the racetronix pump and some 42LBers, maybe a good regulator. Go with the SVO or racetronix injectors

1984camaroz28 · 02-23-2007, 08:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Batman

For just heads and cam I wouldn't even bother with a stand alone. Just get the racetronix pump and some 42LBers, maybe a good regulator. Go with the SVO or racetronix injectors

exactly what he said.....

NJSPEEDER · 02-23-2007, 11:52 PM

don't you already have a 255lph in the tank? i agree with the other guys that all you shoudl really need to upgrade is the injectors. if you want to ensure proper fuel flow from the tank, just get a hot wire kit.

Ian · 02-24-2007, 06:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NJSPEEDER

don't you already have a 255lph in the tank? i agree with the other guys that all you shoudl really need to upgrade is the injectors. if you want to ensure proper fuel flow from the tank, just get a hot wire kit.

no, alex still has the stock pump. j0n has an upgraded pump, maybe you're thinking of him?

like batman said, you should be fine with a pump upgrade, a new regulator and some injectors. I wouldn't be able to recomend what size though, I havent done too much modding on fuel injected engines.

JSPERFORMANCE · 02-24-2007, 07:25 AM

The Racetronix hotwire kit is never a bad idea.. The booster option dosent have to be used and does not interfere with normal operation..

NJLT1SS · 02-24-2007, 11:13 AM

On my 396, I run the Racetronics 255 pump and hotwire kit, and 42lb SVO injectors. That should be more than plenty to feed your setup. I wouldn’t waste the money on an AFPR. I have an Aeromotive one on my car. It’s a nice unit, but what good does it do me when its set to the stock fuel pressure setting anyway. What’s your new setup going to be?

ar0ck · 02-24-2007, 12:39 PM

Its just full bolt ons, ported heads & intake and a CC306.

Knipps · 02-24-2007, 12:43 PM

I just got this in an email...

Quote:

Race Pumps Reinvents the Mechanical Fuel Pump
Race Pumps Reinvents the Mechanical Fuel Pump
Common theory regarding high-performance carbureted V-8 engines says that mechanical fuel pumps, even aftermarket high-performance units, cannot sufficiently feed a high-horsepower competition engine at full song, and that such applications require a high-flow electric fuel pump, or pumps. Of course, if you’re talking about an electronically fuel-injected engine, electric fuel pumps are the norm, even for factory-stock applications.
Race Pumps is out to alter that thinking with its mechanical fuel pumps that it claims are capable of feeding engines making anywhere from 200 to 2,500 horsepower, whether carbureted or fitted with EFI. That’s a heady claim, but it gets even better; that range of output applications is covered by only one pump.
The cornerstone of the Race Pumps unit is its variable displacement design, a unique approach to the mechanical fuel pump developed by company founder Howard Stewart, the latest in a long line of racing equipment innovations he’s nurtured to fruition, mostly implemented in circle track and even NASCAR venues. The design is the result of 16 years of R&D, and uses a reciprocating piston rather than a traditional diaphragm arrangement. There are no valves, yet it will pump only as much fuel as is needed, allowing the use of either “dead-head” or bypass type pressure regulators. This design also provides an anti-drainback feature, so line pressure is maintained even when the engine is off, lending to fuel-injected applications.
The pump, which is currently available for small- and big-block Chevrolet V-8s, mounts to the stock fuel-pump boss and is driven from the same pushrod, but requires 25% less force and weighs about a third as much as a conventional mechanical pump. The pump body is CNC-machined from 6061-T6 aluminum and then hard-coated; internals are stainless steel with seals that are compatible with gasoline or methanol. Each pump comes with A-N-style fittings, using a –10 inlet and a –8 outlet; an extra –8 is included as an alternative inlet fitting.
Go to www.racepumps.com, for more details and an illustrated explanation of how the pump works.
- By Terry McGean

ar0ck · 02-24-2007, 05:59 PM

I'm not sure if I'm following this thread correctly...

Are you guys saying I should just buy a in-tank fuel pump, and theres no need for the full racetronix kit? Can you guys recomend me a peticular model?

42# sounds kinda big, isn't stock like 24lb? Why not 30 or 36?

I know nothing about fuel systems so I need some help. I want to order this stuff on Monday. And hopefully I can send the computer out at the same time, and everything will be back together.

Pampered-Z · 02-24-2007, 06:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TransAm4Life

Its just full bolt ons, ported heads & intake and a CC306.

36lb injectors shoukd be more then enough to feed that combo. You can mail order a tune that will be real close since your set-up is common. I use PCMforless and have no complaints.

Batman · 02-25-2007, 07:42 AM

Yeah I didn't realize you weren't going for a crazy cam, a set of 36 ers will be plenty. I was just thinking go a little big on the injectors and back them down with tuning, that way if you add more in the future you don't need injectors again. I liked the racetronix fuel pump but I am big onjust dropping stuff in and hooking it up and they make it extremely easy. But for the amount of $$$ you have to spend it may be easier for you just to get a Walbro 255 and do the wiring yourself. I would definately recommend Bryan at PCMforless for a bench tune.

NJSPEEDER · 02-25-2007, 10:38 AM

go with a 255lph in tank and a hot wire kit and the 36's.

ar0ck · 02-26-2007, 10:02 PM

I ordered the Racetronix 255lph pump with the hot-wire kit & Racetronix 38# injectors from Thunder, should be here by the end of next week. I just need to have the computer re tuned.

Savage_Messiah · 03-01-2007, 10:53 AM

is that the racetronix kit that will allow you to run the tank down liek the stock pump, and you won't run otu with 3 gallons left?

ar0ck · 03-01-2007, 04:52 PM

No idea, i just hope this works!

So who knows how to do the access panel method? I'm probably going to do this as soon as possible and would love to get a hand with it. The injectors I can handle no problem, but the pump I don't feel to confident about.

Any suggestions?

JSPERFORMANCE · 03-01-2007, 07:14 PM

Please do not hack up your car, drop the tank

BonzoHansen · 03-01-2007, 07:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JSPERFORMANCE

Please do not hack up your car, drop the tank

+1 Not safe, no matter what people have done in the past.

NJSPEEDER · 03-01-2007, 07:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TransAm4Life

No idea, i just hope this works!

So who knows how to do the access panel method? I'm probably going to do this as soon as possible and would love to get a hand with it. The injectors I can handle no problem, but the pump I don't feel to confident about.

Any suggestions?

i don't know why people make a big deal out of doing pumps in thrid and fourth gens. it is easy and only takes a few hours.

1. jack up car as high s you can and suport it on jackstands by the frame
2. put the jack under the rear and support it with the suspension compresse a little
3. drop the end of the panhard bar that is attached to the frame
4. unbolt the top of the shocks
5. slowly lower the rear keeping it supported by the jackor another set of jackstands. let it go down as far as it can
6. loosen the filler neck from the gas door side, and with a friend unstrap and start lowering the gas tank.
7. unplug the wiring harness and fuel lines and pull the tank out.
8. with the tank out you can see how the top comes off and everything is right there. i believe the pump you are tlaking about is a direct replacement, so it shoudl plug right in.

putting everything back is jsut hte revers of removal. it really is an easy process and shoudl not take much time at all. let us know if you need a hand, i am sure there is more than one person around here that has done it before

BonzoHansen · 03-01-2007, 07:41 PM

It's a really good time to replace panhard rods, trailing arms, etc.

ar0ck · 03-01-2007, 10:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BonzoHansen

It's a really good time to replace panhard rods, trailing arms, etc.

Got all the rear suspension squared away. All I need is a tourqe arm

I hope I get the stuff tomorrow.

V · 03-02-2007, 08:56 AM

tanks are easy to drop, i did my SS one way too much in the past. just let the rear hang and drop the muffler, and its a sinch.

...i wish i had pictures of my 96 formula where i removed the entire gas tank from the top... with only a screw driver and channel locks....

Batman · 03-03-2007, 07:16 AM

Drop the tank, don't hack up your car. And the racetronix pump is a modified Walbro 255, it works/fits like a stocker so you won't run out of fuel early.

Savage_Messiah · 03-03-2007, 07:13 PM

I've dropped many rears and dropped the helped drop the tank/do te fuel pump on j0n's car.

Teds89IROC · 03-06-2007, 07:25 PM

Alex let me know what you want to do, I dropped my tank twice so I can be of some assistance