HOW TO : TURBO INSTALL v6 3rdgens

[project89]

since theres always alot of ?'s on how to do this,what it will cost,what will be needed to do this ?'s im going to make up a thread on just how to do this,basically the same setup i have,which can be done by most with access to a welder,or if not a simple trip to the ex shop can be done to finish up the piping
it will take me a few days to make this whole how to so be patient.
as for right now i will start with a simple parts list,and add one from there as i organize my information and pictures,when it is finished hopefully i can get a mod to make this a sticky.

[project89]

#1 turbo charger - which one?
well this depends on ur total goals for ur engine.But i recomend a to4e stage 3 57 trim.its large enough for high boost.but isnt an all out race turbo.ive experanced 6psi by 2,400 rpms with this turbo and full boost 14psi by 3,100 rpms.these turbos can be bought on ebay for around 200$'s i went with a .63 ar on the hot side,and a .50 ar on the cold side.


#2 wastegate/boostcontroller
u have 2 options internal or external.i cant help u with an internal wastegate,cause i didnt use one.nut i went with an 36mm external gate also off ebay.i recomend getting one with a 3.63 psi spring,so u can use a boost controller to control ur boost,the low psi spring alows u to turn ur boost way down to compensate for bad gas/improper tunning. can be had on ebay for around 80$'s for the wastegate,and around 5-20#'s for the boost controller


#3 silicone connectors
u will need various connectors but the sizes will depend on things like ur intercooler inlet and outlet sizes,and the turbo in/out sizes.But for intent and purposes i will assume u go with all the same things i did.
i ended up buying 3 of 2.5 inch couplers 3 3inch couplers, 1 3inch to 2.5 reducer,and 1 2inch to 2.5 inch reducer


#4 intercoolers
what u can use for birds/camaros will vary
i went with an volvo 740 intercooler which can be had on ebay for about 40$'s.they fit nice behind the grill in the camaro,and the way the inlet and outlets are are perfect.They are also more efficent then most of those 100-200$ aluminum intercoolers found on ebay.though the only down side i do see is that they have plastic end tanks.but ive had mine to 14psi so far and havent had any problems.


#5 BOV
u have 2 styles to chose from to atmosphere and recirculating
recirculating is recomended for maf equiped cars.with that said im running a to atmposphere bov on a maf car and have not had a problem.
but the choice is up to u.either will work.and is highly recomended on any car that will see around 7+psi.if u want the distinctive bov sound go with an to atmosphere valve,if u want to keep things nice and quiet go with a recirculating.
these can be had on ebay very cheap i paid around 35$'s for mine


#6 tubing
u will need around 8 2.5 inch bends(have to dbl check) 6 being 90* and 2 being 45*
and about the same in 2.25 inch tubbing (WILL DBL CHECK EXACT COUNT LATER)


#7 injectors - fmu- tunning
for cars staying around 7 psi u will need 19# injectors and an 4-1 or 6-1 fmu
th einjectors are stock on 305/350 tpi motors i believe the 350 are 21# but i can be wrong.can be had off ebay or the boards here pretty cheap
the fmu can be had off ebay for around 80$'s
or u can go with computer tunning-which eliminates the need for the fmu,but is fairly tricky and not many ppl will tune a v6 car,for all intents this howto will be done with an fmu and larger injectors


#8 misc peices
these would include gaskets/oil return/feed lines
feed line is recomended to be 3-4an line but no larger
oil return line is recomended to be 10-an or larger
the length of the lines will be determines on turbo placement/and were u can fi tthe oil return fitting in the side of the oil pan( i recomend right below the oil filter on the drivers side,as this has the most room to weld the fitting onto the pan)
lines/fittings can be purchased from a local speed shop(a lil pricey) or ebay also a lil pricey
an lines are just exspensive look to have about 50-100+ in just lines
besides the lines u need a 1/8 inch pipe t alone with 2 1/8 pipe to an fittings for the oil feed line
and u also need 1/2 pipe to 10 or 12 an fittings depending on the size lines u use
also i recomend getting a 3wire o2 sensor as i had some problems with the stock single wire
i used a walker 3 wire o2 and havent had any problems since PART NUMBER 250-23003 cost was about 55$'s from local parts store + 5$'s for the weld in bung


#9 cars looking for high boost hi power apps will need larger injectors and fuel pump
right now im using 24# svo injectors and a walboro 255 pump fmu and adjustable fp reg

[project89]

Alright so now u have all of the necasary parts so whats next?
well if ur gonna do the same setup i used the first things would be to get rid of some of the things that end up in the way

#1 windshield washer fluid resivor

#2 cruise control

#3 charcol can - when u remove this be sure to plug the line that runs back to the fuel tank for now

#4 ac lines - this is not necasary but makes the install go alot easier,- these can be removed carfully and reinstalled after the turbo has been put in.But will require u to get the ac system recharged

#5 stock air box

#6 lower air dam - this gets put back on the car at the end -though it has to be modified

#7 remove the maf and rubber hose going to the tb

Now that all the extra stuff has been removed from the car there is one last thing to do
a hole needs to be cut under were the charcol can and cruise control was.See picture below


i belive i cut a 3.5 inch hole with a holesaw but ill have to measure it to be sure

[project89]

ok so now what to do ?
well the first thing is to install ur new injectors and afpr

step #1 unhook car battery

#2 remove throttle linkage and tv cable

#3 unhook all vacum lines on the tb and rear of the manifold

#4 remove bolts holding tb to manifold

#5 unbolt bracket from ac compressor to manifold - then remove reamining upper manifold bolts.Once th ebolts are out u can pick up the manifold on the driver side and move it out of the way with the egr tub still attached

#6 cover up intake runners with a rag to prevent anything from being droped into the engine

#7 disconect the fuel lines on the drivers side of the car were the rubber lines meet the lines going to the fuel rail.then disconect the lines from the rail itself and remove

#8 unbolt the bracket holding the throttle/tv cable.then carfully unplug the coolant temp sensor and the fuel injectors( u push in on the meatl wire clips to release.if u try prying them out u will more then likely lose the clips,and or break the connectors

#9 remove the final 2 bolts holding the fuel rail down.then pul up on the rail while wiggling it back and forth

#10 remove injectors from rail,install afpr according to ur specific manufaxctures directions,then reinstall new injectors into rail and reverse procces to put it back on


ok im done for now lots more to enter/pics to add.and i still have to edit whats here incase i forgot anything or mixed up the order on anything

[project89]

first thing to install is gonna be the intercooler.now if u got the same one i got u will have to bend up some aluminum channel and have it welded on the top and bottom of the intercooler.

now u have to cut out the brace that runs from the bottom of the bumper to the bottom of the hood latch

once that is done u can attach the intercooler behing the gril with steel straps and bolts/sheetmetal screws on the tops and bottom of the ic



now i made a big mistake when i put mine in. i set mine right under the hood latch.so when i tried to close the hood the saftey latch hit it and the hood wouldnt close.but it wasnt a big deal since i had a fiberglass bolt on hood.i just removed the saftey latch and got a set of aluminum hood pins.now if u have a stock hood ull want to make sure were ever u place the ic that it dosent interfer with the hoodlatch


the first pipe to build is gonna be the oulet of the intercooler to the throttle boddie.as u can see here i came out of the ic and make a right bend so the pipe ends up under the hole i cut earlier.


once u get the pipe to look like the above picture u place an coupler onto the pipe below the hole.Cause if u make this pipe in one piece u wont be able to get it in or out of the car.

once u get the coupler on take ur next peice of pipe and slide it from the top into the connector,and gently tighten the clamp just enough so it dosent try to fall out.but still lose enough u can rotate the pipe back and forth.

in that pic u can see how i ran the pipe from the tb twards the pipe comming threw the hole.
now the pipes arent the greatest fit because the bends i had werent tight enough to make a nice smooth turn.so i had to do some creative welding and making lil pieces to fill the gaps on some of the pipes



this is also the pipe u want to mount ur bov or recircualtin bov into.

[project89]

and this is what the finished pipe looks like.



ok next up to do is the pipe from the turbo to the intercooler.doing it this way also helps to locate the turbo in the car.
in the pic below u can see how the pipe comes from the intercooler and makes a right bend

and in this pic it makes a 90* bend upwards

now what u need to do is trim the pipe to the right hieght so when u put the turbo on the end it dosent interfer with the fan or the belt/pulleys on the engine
heres 2 more showing the turbo placement
once u get it in place u want to bolt the inlet flange into the turbo


once the turbo is were u want it then comes doing ex inlet pipe
the easiest way to do this is to run a ppe up from the stock y pipe
on the drivers side with a 2.25 hole saw u cut a hole into the y pipe.
ps dont mind the oil all over the pipes i had removed the oil filter and oil filter adapter housing to weld in my oil return fitting into the pan and oil got all over the pipes

u can see the location of were the pipe/hole goes in the pic above/ill have to get better pics
now the pipe u weld onto that should be notched in a tubing nother so u get a good fit
as u can see here the pipe runs foward under the front crossmeber at the sides.pretty much inbetween the cm/and the lower control arm

this pipe runs all the way upto the inlet on the turbo and gets welded to the flange that u bolted to the turbo
since i dont have better pics of the pipe routing right now heres some of the inlet pipe being welded on the bench

[project89]

now before u weld the pipe to the y piep and its in the car permantly u need to bolt it back to the turbo so u can figure out were to weld the flange for ur wastegate on.
if ur using an internal wastegate u can skip this step
mine fit perfectly right bleow the inlet flange and faces the crank pully


once u get that finished u can go ahead and bolt the pipe back to the turbo,and weld the other end onto the y pipe
ok now u have the inlet pipe done.now u have to cut the ypipe from were the rest of the ex system meets it and cap it.so all the ex gasses goto the turbo. in the picture below u can see were i cut mine and caped it.now this isnt optimal but it does work.a better way to do it would be to cut the pipe comming from the manifold short and weld a new bend in its place so when it comes down to the y pipe it makes a nice bend into it instead fo just liek dead ending into it.i would have done this myself but i was running out of tubing.and it was late sunday night so i couldnt even go get more.though i will be making a new pipe soon.when that is on the car i will edit this and post the pics.

well now u have the inlet pipe completely finished
now its time to start the downpipe.( the piep that goes back to the cat/muffler)
here u can see the flange that goes onto the turbo this is a block off flange to block off the hole for the internal wastegate.the pipe comes striaght out of the flange about 3 inches then makes a 90* turn downward

and here it is bolted to the turbo


it drops down and makes another 90* bend under the crossmember on the passengers side
which u can sorta see here (img was to large to put into the thread so click the thumbnail)

here are a few pics of it running back to the rest of the ex system.keep in mind i threw out my stock cat.if u keep urs it will look slightly diff.rout the pipe under the cm and out twards the stock ex location

and here it is gpoing out to the stock intermediate pipe.(ran out of tubing at this point so u can see were i had to weld in bits of the old stock pipe)

[project89]

just one last one blah blah blah blah blah

[project89]

blah need more space

[project89]

im wating my time posting this over here arent i?

[camarorss350]

i like how-to's lol.... nice job....

[Tsar]

arent all those odd angles bad for air flow and such? are you gonna have the pipes redone with one of those bending machine thingies (i forget what its called ) or jsut say **** it?

[project89]

tsar i used those pipes to just get the routing figured out.ive already made new pipes with mandrel bends,very smooth angles and corners.and to be honest i cant tell the diff between the 2 diff sets of pipes.the mass air sensore is actually a bigger restriction then those few harsh bends/angles i had in the original pipes(i get 2-3 inches difference of vacum on both sides of the maf,weres as if my boost controller is set to 12 psi i have 13 psi @ the turbo outlet and 12psi @ the manifold)