Anyone seriously think I can see 11.99 or better this year?

[98tadriver]

I'm full bolt ons, drag radials, EDIT and a 9 inch w/ 4.11s no weight reduction and ill be getting a tune sometime for good measure

my best time is in my sig; thats before DR's, LS6 intake and cut out were installed.
i should have some skinnies for when i run, so theres a lil weight reduction

But seriously, what do yall think i will run before/after the tune? i got the whole knock retard thing straightened out with HPT (thanks to bill!)

Its been irking me for a while, and i just wanted to read everyones opinion

[qwikz28]

with a tune, some here and there weight reduction, and all those mods i think its doable with a crazy launch and some good driving. although, i would try 2 runs back to back, one with an open cutout, and one closed. and see what happens

[98tadriver]

Originally Posted by qwikz28

with a tune, some here and there weight reduction, and all those mods i think its doable with a crazy launch and some good driving. although, i would try 2 runs back to back, one with an open cutout, and one closed. and see what happens

i definately fit the category of good driving i know i can get my 60' down to 1.7x

[NJSPEEDER]

in all honesty, you coudl hit it now prolly. you have the trap speed to get there, or at leat really close. you jsut have to knock at least a full tenth off of that short time. try to get those 60's down into the 1.67ish range and you will get it done.
good luck

[j0n]

gunna be really tough, and i think the weight reduction(front swaybar, seats, spare/jack) are gunna be necessary to hit it

[qwikz28]

ls6 intake + tune is gonna help big time. i say, 1.7 in the 60 and a good night will get you there

[Ian]

just spend a day taking as much out of the car as you can and launch the car like you want to break it and you'll probably run the number.

[enRo]

Ya pretty much what these people said. Wait til that one late season day with a cold front in the low 30's and you will definately hit it.

[Savage_Messiah]

I have offered my hand in weight reduction on that pig before and the offer still stands

[IROCdan330]

ive told you before ron...i believe it can/will happen.

[Mike]

if its gonna, you better go quick, cold helps, too cold hurts....the tracks are gonna be going away quickly unless you go on a saturday or sunday and run durring the day

[Batman]

If there is one thing I've learned from the LS1 is it needs more low end. It seems like most cars trap high and don't put down the E/T. I honestly don't think a true bolt on is going to go much more then 12.3 but I am already impressed with the 12.5 you already put down so you must have a stout engine (lucky bastard!). So anyway here is my advice for knocking out that 11:

-Weather- you want it somewhere in the 40's and low humidity. Too much colder and you will have trouble hooking up
-Lose at least 100#'s from the car
-Be prepared to sacrifice your clutch on a 5K launch and hang on for dear life if it gets squirrly
-And I think you will need to WOT shift

If you can get all that with the strength your engine seems to have I think you have a shot.

[Brando56894]

you could definately do it, weight reduction is your friend

[NJSPEEDER]

PM foff667 about a tune and get back to the track. you have a strong trap speed already. with the tires added to the equation and the extra power of the intake and cut out, there is no reason why you won't get it done.

[Jersey_TA]

Well since you added the DRs, LS6 intake, and cut-out that "should" put you into the 12.2-3 range with a good tune. Getting a good low 1.7 high 1.6 60 is key though. Here's a little advice......I was stuck in the low 12s forever. I always took out the jack and spare. In my quest for 11s I removed the floor mats, passenger and rear seats, rear cargo divider, and slapped on a set of weld draglites. Trust me when I say this. When I put on the welds(skinnies and rears) I dropped .2 and gained 2 mph so that's something you honestly should think about. I know you said your getting the skinnies next time out. I also had the BMR k-member and upper/lower a-arms slapped on and it got me down to 12.088 @ 115. With you being a 6 speed you should definitely be able to hit 11s with your mods and a little weight reduction. You don't neccessarliy have to get the bmr front suspension to do it either. It does drop 37 pounds off the car though

Do you have a 10 bolt still?

My opinion get tuned for the LS6 intake and cut-out, take out the passenger/rear seats/jack/spare, and borrow or buy a set of welds(just skinnies if that's all you can get). My prediction with a good launch = 11.9x

[Jersey_TA]

Originally Posted by Batman

If there is one thing I've learned from the LS1 is it needs more low end. It seems like most cars trap high and don't put down the E/T. I honestly don't think a true bolt on is going to go much more then 12.3 but I am already impressed with the 12.5 you already put down so you must have a stout engine (lucky bastard!)

You would be surprised how many full bolt-on cars are in the high 11s. I went 12.088 in my auto with the stock convertor.

[Batman]

Originally Posted by Jersey_TA

You would be surprised how many full bolt-on cars are in the high 11s. I went 12.088 in my auto with the stock convertor.

Skinnies and lightweight rear wheels definately make a huge differnce. I had slicks for awhile then picked 2 MPH and .15 when I got skinnies. Nice weight loss and reduction in surface friction. How much weight was taken out of the car for that 12.088 and what rear gearing though? Slcisk and skinnies? I find it hard to believe intake and exhaust mods knocked 1.3-1.5 seconds off your 1/4 mile time. I think it also depends on what you consider a bolt on part.

[Jersey_TA]

Originally Posted by Batman

How much weight was taken out of the car for that 12.088 and what rear gearing though? Slcisk and skinnies? I find it hard to believe intake and exhaust mods knocked 1.3-1.5 seconds off your 1/4 mile time. I think it also depends on what you consider a bolt on part.

A bolt-on part is any mod that does not touch oil, but still keeps you N/A. You are right, intake/exhaust mods did not knock 1.3-1.5 seconds off my time. Here's what my car had when I ran the 12.088.....deep breath lol

BG ram air mod, lid, K&N filter, SLP smooth bellows, SLP maf, ported TB, LS6 intake, Meziere(sp) EWP, 160 stat, ASP underdrive pulley, SLP L/T headers, offroad y-pipe, cut-out, flowmaster catback, SLP Zexel 3.73 gears, tb bypass, dyno tune.

Weight reduction: passenger/rear seats/floor mats/rear hatch divider/jack/spare/front sway bar removed, BMR k-member, BMR upper/lower a-arms, weld draglite skinnies and rears on Hoosier QTPs. I also didn't have the AC condensor on the car because it was cracked upon install of the k-member so it was off on that run, but is on the car now. EDIT: also had A.I.R. and EGR removed.

suspension: BMR stuff listed above, BMR torque arm, BMR tubular subframes, SLP boxed LCAs

I did manage to get the 241 heads from the factory instead of the 853s so that did help. I have no doubt in my mind that I would have been in the 12.8 range with an aftermarket convertor. Don't get me wrong though, getting my car down that far was not easy. My race weight was 3450. I hope this helps

[Batman]

That is what it is. I thought there had to be more there toge tthe extra .5 or so. So you are talking bolts ons and weight reduction. That is weighing in nearly 400 pounds under my race weightand I ran a 12.60 with most of your typical bolt ons (granted my track is 700feet ASL, that doesn't help either) so that is definately easier to swallow. What I meant was just a full bolt on car with full interior, we're on the same sheet of music now.

[Jersey_TA]

Originally Posted by Batman

That is what it is. I thought there had to be more there toge tthe extra .5 or so. So you are talking bolts ons and weight reduction. That is weighing in nearly 400 pounds under my race weightand I ran a 12.60 with most of your typical bolt ons (granted my track is 700feet ASL, that doesn't help either) so that is definately easier to swallow. What I meant was just a full bolt on car with full interior, we're on the same sheet of music now.

Oh ok, I see what ya mean now Last time I ran my car with a full interior I didn't have the EWP, pulley, or k-member goodies. I had some extremely heavy TT2s up front and I was on firebird twisty rims with BFG DRs out back. I managed a 12.48. Your elevation is definitely hurting you...like I had to tell you that lol.

[Bandit]

I have a full int, the only mods are pulley, 3.73 gears and drag radials. Its an A4 and with me in it 3900lbs. Best et 12.6@ 110mph. ( I think it has a 12.4 as it is now)

With a converter and headers and tune it would be in the 11's. I want to hit 11's with stock exhaust manifolds and no H/C and without gutting the car.

98 if 12.5 was your best, with the dr's alone you should be around 12.2. I think under perfect conditions you will see 11.99. Heck go to Cecil when you're ready. its 2 tenths quicker then Atco,

[NJSPEEDER]

ahhh, good ol' cecil county. racing downhill is always fun. lol
i say the car has an 11 in it now. your trap speed is strong enough if you can jsut get it out of the hole. low 1.7's or high 1.6's through the 60's should put you in position to get it done. i would look for around a 1.67ish short time to ensure making it to your goal.

[98tadriver]

thanks for your opinions! i'll be looking foward to 11.99s this year lol