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Old 04-29-2012, 12:21 AM   #1
LS1ow
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Motor Prep

gettin ready to dive into this turbo build, so i figured id get the engine ready.

its a 5.3, out of an 07 silverado. is there a write up somewere i missed on what i need to make this work with an f-bod?

i know it has the 58x reluctor wheel, so i need to get it to a 24x. BUT i can just buy the Lingenfelter module they sell for it ($250) or can i just pull the crank and swap wheels from my LS1 ?

i took the pickup/pan off my 1 ls1 block i sold, knowing the truck pan wont work with the Fbody K member, but will i run into a problem with pan/pickup clearance on the 5.3 ? i never havent had the chance to check myself. and if it does, solutions ?


i plan on the doing headstuds and rod bolts befor it goes in, anything else i should do in prep for boost ?
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Motor - 10.84 @ 128 - 1.47 60'
Nitrous - 10.16 @ 132 - 1.40 60"
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Old 04-29-2012, 02:54 AM   #2
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fbody pan, pickup, & windage tray
rod bolts
arp head studs
ls9 head gaskets or cometic mls gaskets .051" thickness
dual valve springs
chromely pushrods
need to weld -10an bung into front of pan for your turbo oil return line
either use lingenfelter module or change ring & sensor
some newer models have the knock sensors on side of block, not under valley, so you'll need to switch around or extend harness
run all 4 steam ports, do not block of rears
install boost friendly cam w/arp cam gear bolts
ls2 or double roller chain
install ls7 lifters if it is a mid-high mileage motor
remove rear crank spacer if not already taken off
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I never pulled into the staging beams at the track and saw a dyno in the other lane.
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Old 04-29-2012, 10:55 AM   #3
LS1ow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S.J.SLEEPER View Post
fbody pan, pickup, & windage tray
rod bolts
arp head studs
ls9 head gaskets or cometic mls gaskets .051" thickness
dual valve springs
chromely pushrods
need to weld -10an bung into front of pan for your turbo oil return line
either use lingenfelter module or change ring & sensor
some newer models have the knock sensors on side of block, not under valley, so you'll need to switch around or extend harness
run all 4 steam ports, do not block of rears
install boost friendly cam w/arp cam gear bolts
ls2 or double roller chain
install ls7 lifters if it is a mid-high mileage motor
remove rear crank spacer if not already taken off
god dammit i didnt take the windage tray off !

so i can just switch the reluxtor wheels from crank to crank ? i wasnt shure if i could.

and the motors only got 36k on it, but i figured id throw some lifters in there anyway
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Nitrous - 10.16 @ 132 - 1.40 60"
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Old 04-29-2012, 07:53 PM   #4
Jersey Mike
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At least you can keep your pan
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Good. He microwaved my phone 6 years ago, i hope his intake erupts.
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Old 04-30-2012, 09:37 AM   #5
LS1ow
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Same head studs and rod bolts as a LS1 right ? im about to order them...
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Nitrous - 10.16 @ 132 - 1.40 60"
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Old 04-30-2012, 06:16 PM   #6
S.J.SLEEPER
 
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head studs
97-03 blocks 234-4316
04 & up blocks 234-4317

rod bolts
234-6301
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I never pulled into the staging beams at the track and saw a dyno in the other lane.
South Jersey Racecraft
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Old 05-01-2012, 06:50 AM   #7
LS1ow
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i knew they would asked you
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Nitrous - 10.16 @ 132 - 1.40 60"
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Old 05-01-2012, 01:26 PM   #8
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lmfao... they said they had some crazy guy from north "joysey" on the other line and wanted my help to get him off as soon as possible before he asked another 1000 questions.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by SRGN View Post
I never pulled into the staging beams at the track and saw a dyno in the other lane.
South Jersey Racecraft

Last edited by S.J.SLEEPER; 05-01-2012 at 01:29 PM.
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Old 05-01-2012, 02:53 PM   #9
LS1ow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S.J.SLEEPER View Post
lmfao... they said they had some crazy guy from north "joysey" on the other line and wanted my help to get him off as soon as possible before he asked another 1000 questions.

blah blah blah !
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Nitrous - 10.16 @ 132 - 1.40 60"
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