View Poll Results: Which do You Suggest?
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GM Stock Replacement
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13 |
65.00% |
Aftermarket Opti
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7 |
35.00% |
Dynaspark Gen III Rotorless w/ Coils
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0% |
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12-10-2008, 08:59 PM
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#26
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Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: brick/pt. pleasant beach
Posts: 19,341
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+ whatever the count is on AC DELCO opti. get em while they are still around
change the waterpump too if it hasn't been done already. consider a wire set at the same time. also an ac delco coil would be good investment. be sure to use die electric grease between the icm and coil. maybe shim the coil away from the head with a few washers to keep it cooler.
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12-10-2008, 09:01 PM
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#27
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Mongo the Meet Coordinator
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 16,900
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Or mount it on your fuel rails.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KirkEvil
repo bigals turd gen and part it out to a loving home
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12-10-2008, 09:05 PM
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#28
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Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: brick/pt. pleasant beach
Posts: 19,341
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yeah like literally, tap the rail and all. then we will address your fuel pressure/leak problem next haha
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12-10-2008, 09:06 PM
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#29
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Mongo the Meet Coordinator
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 16,900
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Mine is bolted to the fuel rail, no leaks so far.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KirkEvil
repo bigals turd gen and part it out to a loving home
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12-10-2008, 09:14 PM
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#30
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Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: brick/pt. pleasant beach
Posts: 19,341
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yeah i meant drill and tap it. but getting it as far from the head is a good thing.
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12-11-2008, 09:49 AM
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#31
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Cape Coral, FL
Posts: 401
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JEGS = AC Delco ?????????????????????????
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1:11am Kasey
buy me a maserati
1:12am Chrissi
if u gimme the money to buy u one sure
1:12am Kasey
what about the goodness of your heart?
1:13amChrissi
kasey. i have no heart.
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12-11-2008, 09:57 AM
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#32
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Landing, NJ
Posts: 1,042
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gm = ac delco
__________________
87 Trans Am 5.7, Auto, posi disc rear, flowmaster muffler, all org car.
88 Iroc-Z TPI, Cammed 350, Vortex Heads, Magnaflow, T5, 4 Wheel Disc, 3.27 9 Bolt PBR.
91 Trans Am VertTPI 350. 700r4, K&N Air Cone, Ryven Muffler.
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12-11-2008, 10:15 AM
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#33
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Sliderule / Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Catawissa PA
Posts: 2,294
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The GM opti is still the best unit out there in my option. Over the past few years we've had lots of problems with the MSD units more then any other.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shownomercy
Why the LT1 hating...
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People hate the LT1/Opti becuase they just don't understand it.
The opti has two sides, the optical part, which is nothing more then a wheel with holes that are optically scanned to tell the EMC the position of the cam (Low Res), the other side in the cap/rotor ( High Res).
When left stock the units are not bad at all, the problems are heat and wear, same as any distributor.
Upgrading of the ignition system (MSD blaster coil) can cause them to wear faster, as well as additional heat in the unit which leads to failure. But most failures are simply from none service. you see allot of opti failures after cam swaps becuase people doing cam swaps and not checking the cam drive pin, it must be exact! Too short or long even by less then a 1/4" can result in catastrophic failure.
People are reporting 150+K miles on a stock unit. But think about, if you had a car with a traditional cap/rotor wouldn't you replace it every tune up/ xx amount of miles? So people complaining their opti went at 80K miles would be like anyone complaining they needed plugs and wires after allot of miles. Thing wear out! The cap/rotor on an opti need to be replaced just like any other cap/rotor. But few it because it's such a PITA!
The optical side is actually a well designed piece by itself, mating it with distributor was the bad idea! What happens in that the spark (or High Res) side results is heat that cause damage or moisture build up and also the sparking results in corrosive gases that can eventually effect the optical site (GM adding venting in 95 only helps slightly). Then they mounted down low under the water pump, with the weep hole right above it. So it can be splashed on or dripped on. Excess vacuum or boost bleeding back into it can distort the degree wheel causing it to make contact with the sensor. And one touch and the optical side it toast. (Ever see a DASD crash before?).
The cap/rotor is the real point or cause of failure, first it's large compared to a conventional rotor, high RPMs (above say 6800) and the rotors tend to tear themselves apart. Unlike a standard cap/rotor, people tend to not service the opti, and they wear and the voltage has further to jump from the rotor to the cap, results in more loose heat and erratic spark - which will eventually kill the Opti side, This heat and loose spark is what ends up killing the electronics.
Of course once you plan to start spinning above 7,000 you’re now into EMC problems as well. People using aftermarket computers can eliminate the cap/rotor and just use the optical part with great success. Once you've eliminated the spark side you've removed most of the units points of failure. Lots of people are spinning their engines over 8000 RPMs with no problem using only the opti side and remove coils/aftermarket DFI.
I have the Electromotive designed for the LT1 (they only made about 100 of these) which has a module that will convert the opti signal for the DFI. It uses a 4 coil pack (wasted spark system, it fires two cylinders at once, so one spark is wasted as it's firing against a cylinder with an open exhaust valve). Actually with some systems like mine you really only need to know where the cam is once, if you have that, you can determine everything elsewhere. With mine there is a crank position sensor, so once the ECM has stored the crank and cam positions, it can determine which injector to pulse and which coil to fire and reference RPM from the crank wheel. I plan to go a step further and get my cam signal via a standard distributor sensor (Rear mounted dist, but instead of a cap/rotor, it will just be a small signal wheel.
There is also a company that is very close to completing a system to use the LS1 system on the LT1. They appear to have designed a new timing cover that will house a cam sensor; they are just working on improving the crank sensor before it's approved from production. This system should solve all the issues with the LT1 ign system, Longevity and high RPM performance
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93Z M6 Black: The 385 Lives! Supercharged, 3-core front mount intercooler, GTP heads, 3:73's, Street twin clutch, Jethot Longtubes, Mufflex 4" catback/spintech, S+W cage, Spohn Suspenion, Yada Yada Yada
1) Build it
2) Race it
3) Break it
4) Repeat!!!
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12-11-2008, 11:19 AM
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#34
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Mongo the Meet Coordinator
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 16,900
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Can you shed some more info on the LS1 conversion kit?
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by KirkEvil
repo bigals turd gen and part it out to a loving home
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12-11-2008, 01:29 PM
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#35
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Banned
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 190
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check ur pm fire_chicken
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12-11-2008, 01:47 PM
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#36
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10 Second Club
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Eatontown
Posts: 1,647
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shownomercy
Can you shed some more info on the LS1 conversion kit?
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The kit includes a For Sale sign and a sharpie marker
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1999 C5 FRC: 12.7@114
2008 TBSS: 12.48@108
2017 Silverado 2500 do you even lift breh?
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12-11-2008, 02:04 PM
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#37
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Landing, NJ
Posts: 1,042
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NICE......
__________________
87 Trans Am 5.7, Auto, posi disc rear, flowmaster muffler, all org car.
88 Iroc-Z TPI, Cammed 350, Vortex Heads, Magnaflow, T5, 4 Wheel Disc, 3.27 9 Bolt PBR.
91 Trans Am VertTPI 350. 700r4, K&N Air Cone, Ryven Muffler.
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12-11-2008, 04:32 PM
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#38
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Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: brick/pt. pleasant beach
Posts: 19,341
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no tape?
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12-11-2008, 04:32 PM
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#39
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Mongo the Meet Coordinator
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 16,900
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You guys suck.
That is all.
LT1 > *
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by KirkEvil
repo bigals turd gen and part it out to a loving home
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12-11-2008, 04:59 PM
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#40
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Boston/North
Posts: 9,214
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__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by BonzoHansen
dumbass.
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12-11-2008, 05:14 PM
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#41
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Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: brick/pt. pleasant beach
Posts: 19,341
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it says to remove the p/s pump. why?
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12-11-2008, 05:46 PM
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#42
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Landing, NJ
Posts: 1,042
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HUH why would you do that for.
__________________
87 Trans Am 5.7, Auto, posi disc rear, flowmaster muffler, all org car.
88 Iroc-Z TPI, Cammed 350, Vortex Heads, Magnaflow, T5, 4 Wheel Disc, 3.27 9 Bolt PBR.
91 Trans Am VertTPI 350. 700r4, K&N Air Cone, Ryven Muffler.
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12-11-2008, 05:47 PM
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#43
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11 second club / Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: West Berlin, NJ
Posts: 7,148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider
it says to remove the p/s pump. why?
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spark plugs wires run behind it i think
__________________
2001 Trans Am WS6 •SLP Loudmouth II •UMI Suspension •12.857 @ 109.57
1996 Trans Am WS6 •Pacesetter Longtubes •Strange 12 Bolt •Spohn Suspension •11.152 @ 123.85
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12-11-2008, 07:59 PM
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#44
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Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: brick/pt. pleasant beach
Posts: 19,341
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yeah but you can change the opti or the wires without removing the pump. they are crazy.
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12-11-2008, 08:03 PM
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#45
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Mongo the Meet Coordinator
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 16,900
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Stock wiring? Nope
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by KirkEvil
repo bigals turd gen and part it out to a loving home
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12-11-2008, 08:03 PM
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#46
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Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: brick/pt. pleasant beach
Posts: 19,341
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? ignition wires. yes.
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12-11-2008, 08:06 PM
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#47
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Mongo the Meet Coordinator
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 16,900
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How so? The wires run along side in the looms no? Behind pump me thought.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by KirkEvil
repo bigals turd gen and part it out to a loving home
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12-11-2008, 08:32 PM
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#48
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Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: brick/pt. pleasant beach
Posts: 19,341
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if anything the alternator. they go underneath that.
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12-11-2008, 08:35 PM
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#49
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Mongo the Meet Coordinator
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 16,900
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Stock route?
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by KirkEvil
repo bigals turd gen and part it out to a loving home
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12-11-2008, 08:39 PM
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#50
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Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: brick/pt. pleasant beach
Posts: 19,341
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si. they barely go behind the pump. its not hard to change them. plugs on stock manifolds is harder
you definitely don't need to remove the p/s pump to change them. cause i didn't. alternator yes.
Last edited by sweetbmxrider; 12-11-2008 at 08:40 PM.
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