eagle engine rebuild kit

[FormulaKeith90]

ive been doing some searching around for a good rebuild kit for my tpi 350. lots of brands to pick from but alot of ppl told me to go with eagle what do you guys think?

[BarneyMobile]

They're not bad at all. Tons of folks run Eagle rotating assemblies with out a problem.

[FormulaKeith90]

my plan is to do a 355 heads cam and full exhaust

[bubba428]

i have a kit with a cast steel crank, forded rods and speed pro pistons. in my 357, ran me about 599 with all the bearings and rings on summit

[sweetbmxrider]

Originally Posted by FormulaKeith90

my plan is to do a 355 heads cam and full exhaust

so stock crank, good rods, and sweet pistons? i wouldn't bother replacing the crank unless it was fudged up, IMO

[FormulaKeith90]

my car has 150,000 miles on it and is on the ferdge of taken a **** soon

[sweetbmxrider]

you should have the stock crank inspected first. if it checks out, its worth keeping. gm doesn't put **** in their motors.

[WildBillyT]

Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider

you should have the stock crank inspected first. if it checks out, its worth keeping. gm doesn't put **** in their motors.

Yup. If you are not changing your stroke you can probably just stick with the stock crank.

its safe to say that the stock crank is stronger than the eagle cast stuff

[Pampered-Z]

I would pull the engine apart and see what condition things are in first before buying any parts. Inspect the rotating assembly and block first, then have the block inspected, then pic you parts.

I've had high milage engines that were well maintained and when sonic and magnaflux inspected weren't any good for modding. Once you know the block is good, then pic your parts.

My .02 on the rebuild kits: If you looking for just a low HP street engine ( say aroubd 350 HP) the economy kits are fine. This would be fine in a TPI car, you not going to be winding way up!

But if you're looking for 400+ HP you want to watch out for some of those lower priced kits, specially the crank as they can require allot of work/material to balance which could not be cheaper in the long run then buying a higher priced crank. Getting the rotating assembly balanced can get exspensive some times!


Price out a kit and factor in the machine work. This might be a good way to go:

http://www.jegs.com/i/Blueprint+Engi...P3551/10002/-1

[mc73nova]

I am on my 2nd one (in a good way)!

First set up I had was a cheap Eagle kit, $750.
Cast crank, Hypereutectic Pistons and I-Beam Rods in my 383. That set up lasted 750 passes in the mid-low 10's spinning 7000 RPM's. The only reason why it stop existing was because of the missing cylinder wall!

This time I went with the serious stuff.
Forged Crank, Forged Pistons and H-Beam Rods.
I cant tell you how that set up is because it isnt running yet! The goal is 725+ hp spinning 7800 RPM's.

I would recommend them to anyone.

Good Luck with the build.

[greenformula92]

i had a complete eagle rotating assembly on a 383 i had in a 85 t/a....no complaints

[RamAir95TA]

Avoid their cast stuff at all costs. There have been tons of failures throughout the LT1 community over the past few years.