rotating assembly

[Lt1_8U]

hey guys

just wondering if anyone has bought either of the following rotating assemblies or can point me in the right direction towards my 383 build.

http://www.jegs.com/p/Eagle/Eagle-St...63943/10002/-1

http://www.jegs.com/p/Scat/Scat-Seri...71035/10002/-1

any input or help would be much appreciated

[coolmanvette75]

In all honesty, spend the extra couple of hundred and get callies parts...

[sweetbmxrider]

Go forged on the bottom end or keep the stock crank. With the procharged build, I would look into higher end components as well.

[Lt1_8U]

thats what i had planned, forged is only a cpl hundred more so its worth spending the cash for the added security. i still had planned on using a procharger with mild boost probably around 8. i will look them up and check out what they have, thanks guys

[Lt1_8U]

holy crap thats like 2,700 for a rotating assembly

[coolmanvette75]

I think callies compstar crank/rods and a good piston was just north of 2k...

[Lt1_8U]

guess im gunna start selling crack....again

[sweetbmxrider]

You could also look at Ohio and Howards crankshafts.

[Blackbirdws6]

Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider

You could also look at Ohio and Howards crankshafts.

But they don't have cool names for their crankshafts....Yes those are to good options as well.

[Pampered-Z]

Originally Posted by Lt1_8U

holy crap thats like 2,700 for a rotating assembly

With a good tune, for 8Lbs of boost you could use a cast crank, But make sure it still a quality unit and not the economy stuff! you would be better off spending a few dollars moe on forged, you don't need a high end crank you willl porbably be in the 500-550HP range (really depends on what other part your using).

Be aware that blowers place side load on the crank snout can snap the crank between the snout and #1 throw. Which is why you don't want a cheap crank!

[Blackbirdws6]

Stock crank is pretty strong but it would be highly recommended to get it cleaned up by a reputable shop before re-using it. Are you still running the stock balancer? If you decide to run a better unit (ATI Super Damper), be sure to get the following:

- BBC crank hub from ATI for the LT1 (have it machined to fit properly on the crank)
- Procharger spacer machined to work with the new damper/hub
- Timing cover machined for the larger hub with a new seal
- Have the crank snout keyed (double if you want to go nuts)

The benefits of the larger hub are to reduce the stress on the crank snout. Once you start hanging the pulley off of the crank, you will see what I'm talking about. This may be overkill for the time being but if you decide to upgrade the head unit or run more boost, you will be all set.

[Lt1_8U]

Originally Posted by Pampered-Z

With a good tune, for 8Lbs of boost you could use a cast crank, But make sure it still a quality unit and not the economy stuff! you would be better off spending a few dollars moe on forged, you don't need a high end crank you willl porbably be in the 500-550HP range (really depends on what other part your using).

Be aware that blowers place side load on the crank snout can snap the crank between the snout and #1 throw. Which is why you don't want a cheap crank!

Originally Posted by Blackbirdws6

Stock crank is pretty strong but it would be highly recommended to get it cleaned up by a reputable shop before re-using it. Are you still running the stock balancer? If you decide to run a better unit (ATI Super Damper), be sure to get the following:

- BBC crank hub from ATI for the LT1 (have it machined to fit properly on the crank)
- Procharger spacer machined to work with the new damper/hub
- Timing cover machined for the larger hub with a new seal
- Have the crank snout keyed (double if you want to go nuts)

The benefits of the larger hub are to reduce the stress on the crank snout. Once you start hanging the pulley off of the crank, you will see what I'm talking about. This may be overkill for the time being but if you decide to upgrade the head unit or run more boost, you will be all set.

much appreciated guys, i think im going to ditch my rotating assembly and go with a forged kit and also change the balancer, i will take a note of all these things and talk to the machine shop i go to.

[Lt1_8U]

this car will be driven only on weekends and nice days during the week if i have time, i just want a motor that has power and can handle it, it wont see much track time, just the occasional friday night street night.

[coolmanvette75]

Here ya go:

http://www.texas-speed.com/p-2588-ca...-balanced.aspx

[Blackbirdws6]

Originally Posted by coolmanvette75

Here ya go:

http://www.texas-speed.com/p-2588-ca...-balanced.aspx

Ehhh I wouldn't with a flat top piston. He will want a dish piston to drop the SCR a bit and I would ask what material they are made of. 2618 would be ideal which I doubt these are.

[sweetbmxrider]

Flat tops are bad mmmmkay

[coolmanvette75]

He doesnt necessarily have to run that piston. He's gonna want a dished piston if he is running boost

[Lt1_8U]

that looks like a beautiful set up and the price isnt bad. how will i know what compression id be running with what piston? is there some formula? sorry if thats a dumb question

[coolmanvette75]

http://www.csgnetwork.com/compcalc.html

[Lt1_8U]

thank you!

[RamAir95TA]

If your goals aren't too extreme, why not just go N/A? It would be FAR cheaper and far more reliable.

Or just buy my car. It's for sale.

[Lt1_8U]

i was debating that but you can make so much more power with a small amount of boost, i was planning on a small blower at low boost, such as the p600b around 7 lbs of boost. i have read about those superchargers on stock motors and they last

your car is nasty, i would love to buy itlol

[RamAir95TA]

You can make more power sure, but it costs TWICE as much and is less reliable.

[Lt1_8U]

very true, what i will do now is do a 355 with a good set of rods and pistons , and do what brian said with the inverted dome and set it up so if i want to do a super charger i can in the future, gee never thought i would pay for dome